"STANDARD" 
o<Work Oil Cutting.>o 



FIFTH EDITION 



^ 



"STANDARD" 

Work on Cutting. 



Revised, Enlarged and Improved. 



FI FTH EDITION. 



'\,'il.''^A COMPLETE TREATISE 



ON THE 



ART N^« SCIENCE OF GARMENT CUTTING. 



-\ Of en' 



Ma/ 2. 



PUBKiSHED BY 

<^' JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 

1886, 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1886, by 

<^^ JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 







John Polhemus, 

Printer and Mf'g Stationer, 

I02 Nassau St., N. Y. 



INDEX. 



PART I. 

Preface, ..... 

Introduction, ..... 

To take the Measures, 

The Framework of Measui'enient System, 

Coats by Measurement System, 

Sleeves and Skirts, .... 

Collars, ..... 

The "Standard" Scale, 

Key to "Standard " Scale and Table of Proportions, 

The Framework by " Standard " Scale, 

Coats by " Standard " Scale, 

General Remarks, .... 

Vests by Measurement System, 

Vest by " Standard " Scale, 

Trousers, ..... 

Bj'eeches, ..... 

Gaiters, ..... 



Capes, 

Misfits, 

Inclination or Attitude, 

Use of Block Pattei'ns, 

Making up. 

Creases in General, .... 

PART VII. 
Cutting Room Etiquette — Advice to Young Cutters, 



PART 11. 
PART III. 

PART IV. 
PART V. 
PART VI. 



PAGK. 
4 

6 
8-9 
10-11 
12-39 
40-43 
44-45 
46-47 
48-49 
50-51 
52-71 
72-73 
74-79 
80-81 
83-89 
90-91 
92-95 



97-103 

. 105 
106-109 

111-118 

120-124 
126-128 

130-131 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fljih Edition. 



PREFACE 



npHE Third Edition of the "Standard" was practically a new System. Its 
success was so pronounced that a Fourth was necessary almost before the 
Third was bound. 

The Fourth, which was very large, had a rapid and continuous sale, and was 
soon exhausted. 

Our thanks are due, and are hereby given, to our Pati'ons for their generous 
appreciation, and we believe that we best show a courteous reciprocity in giving 
this, the Fifth Edition, more than usual care : in point of fact it has received special 
attention in every department, and nothing has been omitted to make it more 
acceptable than either of its predecessors. 

Respectfully, 

^# JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 



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"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. IFifth Edition. 



INTRODUCTION 



THE Fifth Edition of the "Standard" Work on Cutting is not a reprint of the 
Fourth. It contains a very lai'ge number of improvemeuts : new matter, new 
cuts, new points. A thousand and one little details are interwoven that make it 
approximate perfection. As a short measure method it has many advantages over 
any as yet presented to the trade — nothing can be simpler, nothing more easily 
learned. 

Mainly intended for the Student, it necessarily covers very elementary ground; 
nevertheless, we feel assured that the most experienced Cutter will be repaid by its 
careful study. 

The method in this Edition has been carefully elaborated, and it will be noticed, 
on the most cursory comparison, that it has a greater flexibility and allows more free- 
dom for taste than the former Editions. 

Although much new matter has been added the price has not been increased. 

We would call especial attention to the Illustrated Diagrams on " Measurement 
of the Form," in which our improved measuring square is aptly displayed. 

Simplicity has been kept in view throughout and we believe it has been thor- 
oughly attained. 

If this Edition receives the generous and unanimous approval which was freely 
accorded to the 3d and 4th we shall be amply repaid for the time and expense in- 
curred in its production. 



« STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 



THE illustrations on opposite page represent the measures as taken over the coat, 
but it is much better to take them over the vest, and all the drafts given 
for Coats in this Work, except for overcoats, are made by measures so taken. 

Place the Square in position, as shown on Figure 1, and bind the ends of short 
arms together Avith a rubber band as represented. 

Bend the Celluloid band across the back, as shown on Figure 2, and call off the 
front of scye measure as indicated. 

This is the first measure taken 

Mark at top of band on back seam ; hold square firndy with right hand, and, 
with the left, cany the tape attached in front of scye to nape of neck, and call off 
the first over measure. 

This is the second measure. 

Now, cui've tape to scye level, as marked on back seam of celluloid band, and 
call off the second over measure. 

This is the third measure. 

Remove the Square ; 

Mark at nape of neck for top of back ; to locate this point, decide on where 
the top of collar should be and make the mark one inch lower; 

Mark at natural waist ; 

Measure from top of back to scye level, thence to natural waist, thence to 
fashionable waist and thence to full length required. 

These are the fourth., fifth,., sixth and seventh measures tahen. 

Take sleeve lengths to elbow and hand. [The width of back is not taken, as 
it is not a size but a matter of style.] 

Take breast and waist measures. 

The measures, for convenience in drafting, should be arranged as follows: 



Depth of scye, 
Nat. waist, 
Fash, waist. 
Full length, 



Front of scye, 
First over. 
Second over, 



Elbow, I Bi'east, 

Length of sleeve, | Waist. 



The first, second and third measures are taken fairly close. The tape should 
not be drawn tightly. 

THE INDENTATION. 

This is a measure taken to balance the back skirt. It is thoroughly explained 
in a chapter devoted to that purpose. 



Mfth Mmon.) 



'■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




10 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTESTG. [Fifth JSditioru 

THE FRAMEWORK. 



Plate 1. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN ON THE VEST. 



8^ depth of scye, 
16^ nat. waist, 
18i fash, waist, 



1 1 front of scye, 
llj first over, 
17 second over. 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch; to front of scye 1^ inch; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 



9^ depth of scye, 
164 iifit. waist, 
18^ fash, waist, 



\2\ front of scye, 
12f first over, 
17| second over, 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; O to C is depth of scye, 9i ; B is 
half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural waist, 16| ; O to V is fashionable 
waist, ISi ; O to D is ^ breast and \ inch, 2f inches ; Square out from B C K and V. 

C to W is \ breast and 1^ inch, that is 7i inches. This width is, within reasonable 
limits, purely a matter of style ; the third breast and \\ inch give proper width at 
present. 

For over erect figures the width should be rather less and for stooping or heavy 
shoulders rather more than this proportion gives. 

C to F is front of scye measure, 12| ; C to S is half breast and f inch ; S to T 
is 2| inches ; Square down from T and up from F and W. 

The distance from C to F is 12^; now take \ inch less, that is 12}, and place this 
amount at B with the angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the 

other arm as to H. 

F to H is first over measure, 121 ; H <o 2 is width of back ; Draw a line from 
H to T ; H to I is J breast ; F to G is second over, 1 7f ; sweep from G by F ; K to 
L is ^ breast, 2\ inches ; L to M is If inch ; 

Apply half waist measure from K to L and from M to N adding f inch. 

N to P is 3J inches for a three or four button cutaway ; for a D. B. frock it 
should be 1 inch less. 



Fifth Edition.] « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



0- 



11 



1i-^ 



o 




PLATE 1. 



12 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Mitim. 

FOUR-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



Plate 2. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN ON THE VEST. 
8^ depth of scye, 11 fi'ont of scye, 36 breast, 
16^ nat. waist, llf first over, 32 waist. 

18| fash, waist, 17 second over, 

TO those measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch; to front of scye 1^ inch; to first over 1 inch, and 
to second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS : 



9^ depth of scye, 
16| nat. waist, 
18^ fast, waist. 



\2\ front of scye, 
12| first over, 
I7f second over, 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9i ; Bis half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist, 16^ ; O to V is fashionable waist, 18i ; O to D is |^ breast and \ inch, 2| inches, 
and D to 2 is I inch ; square out from B C K and V ; C to W is ^ breast and \^ 
inch, that is 7^ inches; C to F is front of scye measure, 12^ ; C to S is half breast 
and f inch ; S to T is 2^ inches ; T to A is one inch ; square down from T and up 
from F and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure ; place this amonnt, \'i\, at B with 
the angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as 
to H. F to H is first over measure, 12f ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; draw a 
line fiom H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 17| ; sweep from G by 
F ; K to L is 1 breast, 2\ inches ; L to M is If inches. Apply half waist measure from 
K to L, from M to N adding f inch, and from N to P is 4;^ inches. Shape back as 
represented. [The width of back scye is a matter of style. On this Draft the shoulder 
seam is H inches above the notch and the sideseam commences \\ V>elow.] Squ.nre 
across at top of sideseam ; shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, ^ inch 
at blade and ruiming through M ; get length to Y by sideseam of back ; shape bot- 
tom of sidebody to U ; shape scye to center. 

Shape under-arm cut, taking out f inch from R to R. The width of sidebody is 
a matter of taste. On this draft the width from M to R is ^ breast, 4i inches, and 
from C \ inch more than half breast on Division of Halves : that is, 9^ inches. Cut 
out the back. Place 2 of the back on point 2 of foi-epart. Pivot at 2 and swing up 
or down until point C of back touches the sweep, as at 3. 

Shape gorge, raising for a shoj't roll, J inch above I ; shape shouldei', reducing 
at scye, \ inch ; shape scye as represented ; from 2 to 1 is ^^ breast, 4^ inches ; 
sweep from Y by 1 inch back of shoulder point ; draw line from U to junction of 
sweep and the line squared down from T as to 4. 

Take out a small V at 1 ; shape top of lapel, making it, say, \\ inches wide, and 
shape front through A, following line A P to opposite lower button, from which 
point cut it away according to taste or style. 

On this draft the roll is 3| inches deep and the buttons are 3|- inches apart. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition. '[ 



« STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



13 



O. 




PLATE 3, 



14 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



Plate 3. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

8^ depth of scye, 11 front of scye, 36 breast, 

I65 nat. waist, llf first over, 32 waist. 

18^ fash, waist, 17 second over, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch, to front of scye 1^ inch, to fii'st over 1 inch and to 
second over | inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 

DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS : 

9^ depth of scye, 12^ front of scye, 36 breast, 

16A nat. waist, 12f first over, 32 waist. 

18i fash, waist, I7f second over, 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9^ ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist, HH ; O to V is fashionable waist, 18A ; O to D is \ breast and \ inch, 2|, 
and D to 2 is I inch ; Square out from B C K and V ; 

C to W is \ breast and 1:^ inch, that is, 7^ inches; C to F is front of scye 
measure, 12A ; C to S is half breast and f inch; S to T is 2^ inches; Square down 
from T and up fromF and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount, 12^, at B with 
the angle of squai-e touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the othei' ami as to H 

F to H is fii'st over measure, 12f ; H to 2 is width of top of back; Draw a line 
from H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to (r is second ovei-, 17f ; Sweep fiom G by F ; 
K to L is I breast, 2^ inches ; L to M is If inch. 

Apply half waist measui'e from K to L and from M to N, adding f inch for 
under-arm cut. From N to P is 1\ inches ; Shape back as represented ; Squai-e 
across at top of sideseam ; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, A inch at blade and running 
through M ; Get length to Y by sideseam of back ; Sliape bottom of sidebody to 
U ; Shape scye to center ; Shape under-arm cut, taking out f inch from R to R ; 
Cut out the back ; 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the foi'epart, pivot at 2 and swing iq) or down 
until point C of back touches the sweep, as at 3 ; 

Shape gorge, raising for a short roll | inch above I ; Shape shoulder, reducing 
at scye \ inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 1 is ^ breast, 41 inches ; 
Sweep fiom Y by 1 inch back of shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of sweep and the line squared down from T as to 4 ; 
From 1 to A is If inch ; Shape seam edge of lapel; Make lapel 'i\ inches wide at 
top, 2| at breast and 2^ at waist ; Shape bottom, shortening \ inch as at 4. 

In spacing buttons they may be placed at even distances apart, or the two upper 
may be from 1 to 1^ inch farther separated than the others, so as to give a longer 
turn. 

The button line is 2 inches back from T and l^inch back from front of forepart 
at waist. Take out a small V in front of hip. This completes the Draft. 



MftJi Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



O- --^^ 




PLATE 3. 



16 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

ONE-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 

Plate 4. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

' 8 depth of scye, 11 front of scye, 36 breast, 

17 nat. waist, \\\ first over, 32 waist. 

\^\ fash, waist, ITi second over, 
[These measures are for a short necked, high shouldered figure.] 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch; to front of scye \\ inch; to first over 1 inch 
and to second over | inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED 

IN DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS : 

9 depth of scye, 12| front of scye, 36 breast, 
17 nat. waist, 12^ first over, 32 waist. 

18| fash, waist, 18 second over, 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9 ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist, 17 ; O to V is fashionable waist, 18^ ; O to D is ^ breast and \ inch, 2f, and 
D to 2 is f inch ; Square out from B C K and V. C to W is ^ breast and 1^ inch, 
that is 1\ inches ; C to F is front of scye measure, 12^ ; C to S is half breast and f 
inch ; S to T is 1^ inches ; Square down from T and up from F and W. 

"Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount, 12^, at B with 
the angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm 
as to H. 

F to H is first over, 12^; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line from H 
to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 18 ; Sweep from G by F ; K to L 
is ^ breast, 2\ inches ; L to M is If inch ; 

Apply half waist measure from K to L, and from M to NT adding f inch ; 

From N to P is 2^ inches ; Shape back as represented ; Square aci'oss at top of 
sideseam ; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody reducing \ inch at top, A inch at blade, and running 
through M ; Get length to Y by sideseam of back ; Shape bottom of sidebody to 
U ; Shape scye to center ; Shape under-arm cut, taking out | inch from R to R ; 
Cut out the back ; 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart ; pivot at 2 and swing up or 
down until point C of back touches the sweep as at 3 ; 

Shape gorge, raising for a short roll f inch ; Shape shoulder, reducing at scye \ 
inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 1 is \ breast, 4^ inches ; Sweep from 
X by 1 inch back of shoulder point. 

Draw a line from U to junction of sweep and the line squared down from T as 
to 4 ; take out a small V at I ; shape top of lapel, making it, say, \\ inch wide and 
shape front through A, cutting it away through P or according to style. On this 
draft the roll is 3f inches deep. 

This completes the Draft. 



Mflh Edition.] 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



\1 




PLATE 4. 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



FULL-DRESS COAT. 



36 ])reast, 
32 waist. 



Plate 5. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

8^ depth of scye, 11 front of scye, 
16i nat. waist, 1 If first over, 

18i fasli. waist, 17 second over, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To dei3th of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye U inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 

DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 

9^ depth of scye, 12i front of scye, I 36 breast, 

\Q\ nat. waist, 12| first over, 32 waist. 

18i fash, waist, 17| second over, | 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9| ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is 
natural waist, 16| : O to V is fashionable waist, 18^ ; O to D is ^ breast and \ 
inch, 2|, and D to 2 is t inch ; Square out from B C K and V ; C to W is \ breast 
and \\ inch, that is 71 inches ; C to F is front of scye measure, 12| ; C to S is half 
breast and | inch ; S to T is 2^ inches ; Square down from T and up from F and W. 

Take I inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount, V2\, at B with the 
ancle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as to H. 

F to H is first over measure, 1 2f ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line 
from H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 17| ; Sweep from G by F ; 
K to L is I breast, less h inch. If inch ; L to M is 2 inches for Dress Coats. 

Apply half waist measure from K to L and from M to N, adding f inch , From 
N" to P is 2:^ inches. Shape back as represented, making the back scye considerably 
narrower than for other styles. 1^ inch above and 1 below the notch (line B) is 
about right. Square across at top of sideseam ; Shape sldeseam of sidebody, re- 
ducing \ inch at top \ inch at blade and running through M ; Get length to Y by 
sideseam of back ; Shape bottom of sidebody to U ; Shape scye to center ; Shape 
under-arm cut, taking out f inch from R to R ; Cut out the back. 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart, pivot at 2 and swing up or down 
until point C of back touches the sweep as at 3 ; 

Shape gorge, raising \ inch or less above I ; Shape scye as rep)resented ; From 
2 to 1 is I breast, 4^ inches ; Sweep from Y by 1 inch back of shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of sweep and the line scjuared down from T, as 
to 4 ; Shape front as for a double-breasted frock, commencing at 1 and curving through 
T and P to waistseam, as per double dotted line ; Point A is made 1 inch from the 
dotted line at the depth of roll wanted ; Draw crease line from \ inch in front of 2 
to A as represented ; Shape front of lapel from A down, cutting it away about the 
same as for a Four-Button Cutaway ; Shape inside edge of lapel, commencing at T 
and making it H inch wide at waistseam ; continue from T upwards on a slight curve; 
Reduce gorge from 1 as much as necessary to give a nice roll and reshape to seam 
edge of lapel, striki^ig it half-way between T and P ; Get length to 2 and complete 
lapel, making it, say. If inch wide at top ; the width at T is 2\ inches. 

A small " V " may be taken out of gorge for full breasted men. 

Space lapel for 5 buttons and finish as represented. 



Fifth Edition.} 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



19 



0-—^ 




PLATE 5. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



FROCK FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 6. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST 

9^ depth of sc)^e, 
18 nat. waist, 
19f fash, waist, 



12f front of scye, 
13^ first over, 
191 second over. 



43 breast, 
46 waist. 



TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch; to front of scye \l inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over | inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DEAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 

10^ depth of scye, 14^ front of scye, 43 breast, 
18 nat. waist, 14i first over, 46 waist. 

19f fash, waist, 20^ second over, 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; O to C is depth of scye, lOi ; B is 
half-way between O and C ; O to K is natiiral waist, 18; O to V is fashionable 
waist, 19f ; O to D is ^ breast and A inch, and D to 2 is f inch ; Square out from B 
C K and V; C to W is ^ breast and l\ inch, that is 8f inches; C to F is front of 
scye measure, 14| ; C to S is A bi'east and | inch ; S to T is 2^ inches ; Square down 
from T and up from F and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount, 14, at B with 
the angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as 
to H. F to H is first over measure, 14i ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line 
from H to T; H to I is ^ breast; F to G is second over, 20^; Sweep from G by F ; 
K to L is 1^ breast ; L to M is If inch. Apply half waist measure from K to L and 
from M to N, adding f inch. From N to P is 2^ inches ;Shape back as represented ; 
Square across at top of sideseam. 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, \ inch at blade and running 
through M ; Get length to Y by sideseam of back ; Shape bottom of sidebody to U ; 
Shaj)e scye to center; Shape under-arm cut, taking out f inch fi-om R to R ; Cut out 
the back. Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart, pivot at 2 and swing up 
or down until point C of back touches the sweep, as at 3. 

Sliape gorge, raising for a short roll | inch above I; Shape shoulder, reducing 
at scye \ inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 1 is ^ breast on Division of 
Fourths ; Sweep from Y by 1 inch back of shoulder point. 

Draw a line from U to junction of sweep, and the line squai'ed down from T as 
to 4 ; Shape front from 1 through T and P to 2. Shape seam edge of lapel, making 
space at 1 one inch and at 2 a half inch ; Make lapel 2f inches wide at top, 3 inches 
at breast and 2f at waist ; Shape waistseam, dropping A inch below the line at the 
front V and shoi'tening ^ inch as at 4 ; Make front V i inch wide. The other V is 
required only when extra spring is needed over hips. For the Cutaway shown by 
crossed lines add, from T to A 2 inches, and finish as represented. This completes 
the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.^ « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 6. 



22 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. \Fifth Edition. 



CLERICAL COAT. 



1 2 front of scye, 
13|- first over, 
17| second over, 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



Plate 7. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN ON THE VEST. 

9^ depth of scye, 10^ front of scye, 1 36 breast, 
17^ nat. waist, 12| first over, 32 waist. 

19 fash, waist, 16^ second over, | 

[These measures are for a long necked, sloping shouldered figure.] 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front af scye 1^ inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 

second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 

DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 

10|^ depth of scye, 
17^ nat. waist, 
19 fash, waist, 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V; 

O to C is depth of scye, 10} ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist, 17^ ; O to V is fashionable waist, 19; O to D is |^ breast and \ inch, 2J inches 
and D to 2 is I inch ; Square out from B C K and V; C to W is \ breast and 1 1 
inch, that is 7} inches; C to F is front of scye measure, 12 inches; C to S is ^ breast 
and t inch; S to T is 2\ inches ; T to A is 1 inch; Square down from T and up from 
F and W. Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount, llf, at 
B with the angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other 
arm as to H. F to H is first over measure, 13 J; H to 2 is width of top of back; 
Draw a line from H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 17| ; Sweep 
from G by F ; K to L is |^ breast, 2} inches ; L to M is If inch ; Apply half waist 
measure from K to L, from M to N, adding f inch, and from N to P is 3| inches. 
Shape back as represented ; Square across at top of sideseam. Shape sideseam of 
sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, | inch at blade and running through M ; Get 
length to Y by sideseam of back ; Shape bottom of sidebody to U ; Shape scye to 
center ; Shape under-arm cut, taking out f inch from R to R ; Cut out the back. 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart, pivot at 2 and swing up or down 
until point C of back touches the sweep, as at 3. Shape gorge from 2 through point 
I ; From 2 to 1 is | breast, 4^ inches ; Shape shoulder, reducing at shoulder \ inch ; 
Shape scye as represented ; Sweep from Y by 1 inch back of shoulder point ; Draw 
a line from U to junction of sweep, and the line squared down from T, as to 4. 
Make top of lapel 1 inch wide, and shape front thi-ough A and P to waist. Space 
buttons. This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.^ 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



0- 



^!^^, 




PLATE 7. 



24 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



STRAIGHT-FRONT SACK. 

Plate 8. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

36 breast. 



1 1 front of scye, 
llf first over, 
17 second over, 



8^ depth of scye, 
16^ nat. waist, 
29 full length, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye 1^ inch ; to first over 1 inch and 
to second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED 
IN DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS : 

36 breast. 



9^ depth of scye, 
16i nat. waist, 
29 "full length, 



12^ front of scye, 
12f first over, 
17| secoad over, 



1^ 
TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist ; O to V is full length ; O to D is | breast and D to 2 is f inch ; Square out 
from B C K and V ; O to U is 30 inches for all sizes ; square across from U ; C to 
W is ^ broast and 1^ inch, that is 7\ inches; C to F is front of scye measure, 12^ ; C 
to S is half breast and | inch ; S to T is 2| inches ; T to A is 1 inch ; Square down 
from T and up from F and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount at R with the 
angle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as 
toH. 

F to H is fii'st over measure, 12f ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line 
from H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 17f ; Sweep from G by F; 
K to L is ^ breast ; square down from L ; L to M is 1^ inch and P to R is yV breast. 

Shape back, raising shoulder seam H inch, more or less above notch, com- 
mencing sideseam \ breast, more or less, above breast line and curving it grace- 
fully through L to P; hollow at K ^ inch. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top and curving it as represented 
through M to R. Cut out the back. 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart and swing up or down until point 
C of back touches the sweep, as at 3. 

Shape gorge, raising for a short roll | inch above I ; Shape shoulder, reducing at 

scye \ inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to I is \ breast, 4i inches ; Sweep 

from bottom of sideseam by point 2, as to N ; N is the junction of sweep and the 

line squared down from T ; Shape front through A to N and bottom as to N ; Square 

down from F. 

Point 4 is 7f inches, more or less, according to length of coat, from the bottom. 

Mark top of pocket parallel with the bottom and divide the width — usually 6^ 
inches — equally on each side of 4. Make under-arm cut \ inch wide at waist. 

This completes the Draft. 



^fth Editiotik] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



25 



0* -. 




0. 0^ 



PLATE 8. 



26 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK. 



Plate, 9. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

8^ depth of scye, 1 1 front of scye, 36 breast. 
16A nat. waist, I If first over, 

291 full length, 17 second over, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye \\ inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over f inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS. 



9^ depth of scye, 
161 nat. waist, 
291 full lensth. 



12^ front of scye, 
12| first over, 
1 7f second over. 



36 breast. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist ; O to V is full length ; O to D is ^ breast and D to 2 is | inch ; Square out 
from B C K and V ; O to U is 30 inches for all sizes ; square across from U ; C to 
W is 1 breast and \\ inch; that is 7i inches ; C to F is front of scye measure, 12^; 
C to S is half breast and % inch ; S to T is 2^ inches ; T to A is 3 inches ; Square 
down from T and up from F and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount at B with the an- 
gle of square touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as to H. 

F to II is first over measure, 12| ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line 
from PI to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 17| ; Sweep from G by F ; 
K to L is i 1)reast ; square down from L ; L to M is ii inch and P to R is ^-^ bi-east ; 

Shape back, raising shoulder seam 11 inch more or less above notch, commencing 
sideseam i l)]-east, more or less, above the breast line and curving it gracefully through 
L to P ; hollow at K 1 inch ; 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top and carrying it as represented 
through M to R ; Cut out the back ; 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart and swing up or down until point 
C of back touches the sweep, as at 3 ; 

Shape gorge raising at scye \ inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 1 is 
\ breast, 4^ inches ; Sweep from bottom of sideseam of forepart, by point 2 as to N; 

N is the junction of sweep and the line squared down from T; 

From 5 to 6 on line U is 1 inch ; and from 5 to Y is 3 inches ; or the same as 
from T to A ; 

Mark break to required point, say 7 to 7^ inches from point of lapel, and shape 
front and bottom as represented ; Shape down fi'om F ; 

Point 4 is 8 inches or less according to length of coat from the bottom ; 

Mark top of pocket parallel with the bottom and divide the width equally on 
each side of 4. 

The buttons are as far back of center line as from center line to center of holes. 

Make under-arm cut \ inch wide at waist. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



27 



o. ^^ 




PLATE 9. 



28 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

SACK COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 10. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 



9i depth of scye, 
18 nat. waist, 
30 full length, 



12f front of scye, 43 breast, 
13i first over, 46 waist. 

19f second over, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye 1| inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over | inch. 



THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED, 
ARE NOAV AS FOLLOWS: 



lOA depth of scye, 
18 nat. waist, 
30 full length, 



14A front of scye, 
14| first over, 
20^ second over, 



43 bi-east, 
46 waist. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O V ; 

O to C is depth of scye, lOi ; B is half-way to O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist, 18 ; O to V is full length, 30 ; O to D is |^ breast and I inch, and D to 2 is f 
inch; Square out from B C K and V ; C to W is ^ breast and \\ inch, that is 8f 
inches ; C to F is front of scye measure, 14J ; C to S is half breast and f inch ; S to 
T is 2\ inches ; T to A is 1 inch ; Square down from T and up from F and W. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, place this amount at B with the 
angle of squai'e touching breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as to H. 

F to H is first over, 14^ ; H to 2 is width of toj) of back ; Draw a line from H 
to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; Fto G is the second over, 20i ; Sweep from G by F ; K to 
L is ^ breast ; square down from L ; L to M is 1|^ inch and P to R is -^^ breast. 

Shape back, raising shoulder H inch, more or less, above notch, commencing 
sideseam \ breast, more or less, above breast line and curving it gracefully through 
L to P ; hollow at K i inch. Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top 
and curving it as lepresented through M to R. Cut out the back. Place 2 of the 
back on point 2 of the forepart, and swing it up or down until point C of back 
touches the sweep, as at 3. Shape gorge, raising for a short I'oll f inch above I ; 
Shape shoulder, reducing at scye A inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 
1 is i, 5f inches ; Sweep from bottom of sideseam by point 2 as to *. Shape front 
for regular foi'm as from A to N, making the line, as shown, a gentle curve. 

This makes the coat large enough at U for a man whose waist is 1 inch larger 
than his breast. Point U is therefore right for a 45 waist. But the waist is 46. 
Point U is then 1 inch too small. This inch is added from U to Y. 

Now shape front through A and Y, keeping it parallel below Y with the broken 
line U N ; Square down from F. 

Point 4 is 8 inches, more or less, according to length of coat f]-om the bottom ; 

Mark top of pocket paT'allel with the bottom of coat, and divide the width 
equally on each side of 4 ; Mark a straight line from scye to pocket ; 

Cut out the 25attei-n, leaving the bottom an inch or more longer than marked. 

To complete the forepart follow instructions given for Plate 11. 



Fifth Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



29 




PLATE 10. 



■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth EiUHon. 



THE ''V" FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 11. 

CUT down from scye to pocket mouth as marked on preceding di*aft. 
Open out the V at scye as much as was added from U to Y, and crease down 
the surplus paper as at S. 

Now reshape the bottom as shown by solid line. 

This treatment provides a pocket for the belly, and amounts to the same thing 
as drawing in the edge at bottom. 
This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.!^ 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



31 




PLATE 11. 



A 



« STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



FLY-FRONT OVERSACK. 



Plate 12. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 

8| depth of scye, Hi front of scye, 38 breast. 
17 J nat. waist, 12^ first over, 

38 full length, 18 second over, 

rriO these measures add as 'follows : 

-*- To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye 1^ inch ; to first over 1 inch and to 
second over h inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 



9f depth of scye, 
17^ nat. waist, 
38 full length, 



13 front of scye, 
13^ first over, 
18^ second over. 



38 breast. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O D and O U ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9f ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist; O to V is full length ; O to U is 36 inches always; O to D is ^ breast and \ 
inch ; D to 2 is 1 inch ; Square out from B C K U and V ; C to W is \ breast and 
l\ inch ; C to F is front of scye measure, 13 ; C to S is half breast and | inch ; S to 
T is 2i inches ; T to A is 2 inches ; Square down from T and up from F and W. 

Place the full front of scye measure at B, with the angle of square touching 
breast line, as at E, and squai'e up by the other arm as to H. 

F to H is first over measure, 13^; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw a line 
from H to T ; H to I is i breast ; F to G is second over, 18^ ; Sweep from G by F ; 
K to L is 1 breast; square down from L ; L to M is 1^ inch and P to Ris \ breast. 

Shape back, raising above O \ inch, above notch 1^ inch, commencing side- 
seam i more or less above W, and curving gracefully through L and P. Hollow 
at K ^ inch and spring out at U 1 inch. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing at top i inch, and curving it as repre- 
sented thi'ough M and R to bottom ; Cut out the back ; 

Place 2 of the back on point 2 of the forepart and swing up or down until 
point C of back touches the sweep, as at 3 ; 

Shape gorge, raising for a short roll | inch above I ; Shape shoulder, reducing 
at scye I inch ; Shape scye as represented ; From 2 to 1 is | breast ; Sweep from 
bottom of sideseam by point 2, as to N ; From 5 to 6 is U i»cli ; Shape fly line from 
1 through T and ; Add 2 inches from 6 to Y ; Shape front through A and Y; The 
buttons are placed 1 inch back of fly line; Square down from F; Point 4 is 12^ 
inches, more or less, below F according to height. 

Mark top of pocket parallel with the bottom of Coat and divide the wndth 
equally on each side of 4 ; Make under arm cut I inch wide at waist; 

Shape bottom as rejjresented. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth JTclitionJ] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



33 



O— — --. 




PLATE 12. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING, \Fiflh Edition. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERSACK. 



Plate 13. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 

8f depth of scye, I \\\ front of scye, 38 breast. 
17A uat. waist, 12;^ first ovei-, 

38 full lengtli, | 18 second over, 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch; to front of scye H inch; to first over 1 inch and 
to second over \ inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 

38 breast. 



9f depth of scye, 
17^ nat. waist, 
38 full length. 



1 3 front of scye, 
13| first over, 
18^ second over, 

TO DRAFT. 



Commence by squaring lines O D and O U ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 9f ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist ; O to V is full length ; O to U is 36 inches always ; O to D is \ breast and \ 
inch ; D to 2 is 1 inch ; Squai'e out from B C K U and V ; C to W is ^ breast and 
1^ inch ; C to F is front of scye measure, 13 ; C to S is half breast and | inch ; S to 
T is 2A inches; T to A is 3 inches; Square down from T and up fi'om F and W. 

Place the full front of scye measure at B with the angle of square touching 
breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as to H. 

F to H is first over measure, 13;^ ; H to 2 is width of top of back ; Draw u line 
from H to T ; H to I is ^ breast ; F to G is second over, 18^ ; Sweep from G by F ; 
K to L is ^ breast ; L to M is 1|^ inch, and P to R is -|- breast ; 

Shape back, I'aising above O \ inch, above notch 1^ inch, commencing sideseara 
1^, moi'e or less, above W, and curving gracefully through L and P ; hollow at K \ 
inch and spring out 1 inch at U ; 

Shape sideseam of forepait, reducing at top \ inch and curving it as I'epre- 
sented through M and R to bottom ; Cut out the back ; Place 2 of the back on 
point 2 of the forepart and swing up or down until point C of back touches the 
sweep, as at 3 ; Shape gorge, raising for a short roll f inch above I ; Shape shoulder, 
reducing at scj'e \ inch ; Shape scye as represented ; Fi'om 2 to 1 is ;^ bi-east ; Sweep 
from bottom of sideseam by point 2 as to N ; From 5 to 6 is 1 J inch ; Shape center 
line from T through 6 down to N ; Add 3 inches fi-om 6 to Y ; Shape front through 
A and Y to bottom, peaking the lapel at top to taste or fancy, and making it any 
desired width ; The buttons are placed as far back of dotted center line as fi'om 
this line to center of holes, or if a loose easy front is desired, half as far back of 
T as A is in advance of T; Square down from F; Point 4 is 12i inches more or 
less below F, according to height; Mark top of pocket parallel with the bottom 
of coat and divide the width equally on each side of 4 ; Make under-arm cut \ inch 
wide at waist ; Shape bottom as represented. This completes the Draft. 



/T ' 



Fifth' Edition.] 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 13. 



36 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING, [Fifth Edition. 



ILLUSTRATION OF LARGE HIPS AND THE 20—25 MEASURE. 



Plate 14. 

THIS figure has to be arranged for in a different manner than is usually taught, 
and frequently gives trouble even to the experienced cutter. The student is 
generally told to dispense with the waist measure ; to allow for seams and govern all 
Coats that button at or near the waist by the hip measure. This is a mistake, as it 
places the increase of size at the front, lohen it is wanted on the hips, that is, on each 
side of the hip bone. A careful study of the draft on the opposite page will show 
the correct method. Save that the hips are 1^ inch larger, the draft is the same as 
the normal ; the dotted lines indicate the regular form, the dark ones, the alterations 
to be made for the large hip. Instead of cutting the fish as the forward dotted lines, use 
the shajje given by the dark lines, which will greatly assist to fit this figure. The 
sidebody should be stretched as hard as the goods will admit of without going back 
again. The waist seam of the forepart should be gradually worked out to give the 
hip the required size, as it is scarcely possible to give all the size in spring on the 
under arm seams sufficiently sudden without giving the apjDearance of the female hip 
which must be avoided. A judicious use of the iron will greatly aid the formation of 
a nice appearance around the waist of a figure with prominent hips ; the waist of the 
skirt should also be well shrunk in before joining to the forepart. 

To take the slope of shoulder measui'e, place, say 20 on the tape measure at the 
socket bone or collar seam (either on Coat or Vest), throw the short end of the 
measure over the front shoulder, and with the fore finger of the right hand arrest it 
anywhere at front of scye ; drop the measure placed at 20 at collar seam down to the 
scye level depth at back seam and call off the measure, 25^ in the present case. This 
shows the difference in the two over-shoulder measures, 5^ inches. 

To ajDply the measure on the draft, place the back in closing position at 
shoulder point and fasten with a pin ; from top of back at 4 measure off the 
difference, b\ inches, as at point 5 ; sweep from F by this point as line 5, 6 ; swing 
back until sweep touches the scye level depth on back and form shoulder seam. If 
the shoulder points are to be much built up, allow for exti'a building accordingly. 



/ 



Fifth Edition.'] 



■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



37 




PLATE 14. 



38 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



P 



THE INDENTATION OF THE BACK. 

Plate 15. 

LACE a long Sti-aight Edge to touch the back between the bhades and to rest 
against the seat on the line of the spine ; now measure the indentation of the 
back, at natural waist, from the Straight Edge. For a normal figure it will be IJ 
jnch. It may be as little as A inch for one and as much as 2J for the other 
extreme. 

TO USE THE INDENTATION MEASURE. 

Diagram 1 illustrates the \ inch indentation. O O is a straight line. The back 
is placed to touch O at top, and is i inch from the line at the natural waist. The 
"turn in" is at equal distance outside of line 0. Square across at bottom by 
O O as to E and up to the waist from E, allow for Plait. 

Diagram 2 illustrates the normal indentation, 1^ inch. Place back to touch O 
at top with natui'al waist 1;^ inch fi'om the line. Square aci'oss at bottom as to E 
and up from E to waist. Add for plait outside of O at bottom and draw a line up 
to junction of line O O and back tack. 

Diagram 3 illustrates an indentation of 2\ inches, as required for an over-erect 
figure. Place back to touch at line O at top with natural waist 2^ inches from the 
line. Square across at bottom as to F and up from F as to waist. It will be seen at 
once the bottom of skirt is now too wide for style; reduce, therefore, from F to E 
until O E is the coi-rect width. Add for plait and finish as represented. The 
amount reduced from F to E must be added to spring of body skirt. 



Mf'th Edition.'] 



■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



39 




U^ w 



u^ o 

PLATE 15. 



w O 



\ 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



THE SLEEVE. 



Plate 16. 

BP]FORE drafting the Sleeve, measure the arm scye carefully ; then make forearm 
notch f inch up from bi'east line. Now measure from back pitch round back 
scye to forearm notch. This distance, as hereinafter explained, governs the width of 
the top of underarm sleeve. 

TO DEAFT. 

Draw line A O and square out from A. 

A to C is H inches always. 

A to D is 4 inches always. 

Square across from D. 

i) to H is 6 inches always. 

Draw a line from C through H. 

C to E is half scye and I inch. 

Square down from E by line H D. 

Square fi'om H to K by line C H. 

K is If inch from H. 

Get length to O and sweep to R by A. 

R to S is 6|- inches, more or less. 

U to R is 1 inch, and R to T is the same. 

Sweep from C by elbow and mark in to L 1 inch. 

E to N is 1 inch. 

[From L to N is the same as from front to back notch, as explained above. 
Should the distance be more or less from L to N, then enlarge or decrease equally 
on each side until the desired size is obtained.] 

Shape top of outside sleeve from C to top line and thence to E as represented. 

Shape from C to S, swelling | inch at elbow. Shape bottom. Shape inside 
seam from E to U and from N to T. 

Shape top of under sleeve from N through K to L. Shape from L to elbow. 

This completes the sleeve. 



SKIRT FOR D. B. FROCK. 



s 



Plate 16. 
QUARE lines 1, 2 and 1, 3. 

From 1 to 3 is 9 inches always ; 
From 3 to 4 is 2 inches always ; 

From 1 to 2 is width of sidebody, forepart and lapel ; 
Square down from 2 ; 
From 2 to 5 is 1^ inch; 
From 5 to 6 is 9 inches ; 
From 6 to 7 is ^ incli ; 
Draw a line from 1 to 5 ; 
Di'aw front from 5 through 7 ; 
Shaj)e spring from 1 through 4 ; 

Get length required and make front | inch shorter than the back. 
This completes the Skirt. 



/ 



Fifth Edition.'] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



41 




CM 



ID 



(0 




PLATE 16. 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



CUTAWAY SKIRT. 



Plate 17. 

SQUARE lines 1, 2 and 1, 3 ; 
From 1 to 3 is 9 inches always ; 
From 3 to 4 is 2 inches always ; 
Get width to 2 by sidebody and forepart ; 
From 2 to 5 is H inch ; 
Draw a line from 1 to 5 ; 
Shape top, dropping \ inch below 5 as to 6 ; 
Shape spring from 1 through 4 ; 

Shape front, making it range with run of front of forepart. 
Get length and finish. 

SKIRT FOR DRESS COAT. 
Square lines 1, 2 and 1, 3 ; 
From 1 to 3 is 9 inches always ; 
From 3 to 4 is 2 inches always ; 
From 1 to 2 is width of sidebody and forepart ; 
From 2 to 5 is 1^ inch ; 
Draw a line from 1 to 5 ; 

Shape top from 1 to 6 dropping 1 inch below 5 ; 
From 6 to 7 is ] J inch, more or less ; 
Measure from 1 to 6 ; 

Take this amount, which we will assume to be 15 inches, and make 7 to 8 |^, 
and 8 to 9 Jg of 15; 

Shape spring from 1 through 4 ; 

Get length to K : 

K to L is ^ and L to M is -^^ of 15 ; 

Draw a line from 9 to M ; 

Shape strap and front ; 

This completes the Skirt. 



/ 



^ Fifth Bdition.] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 





( 



44 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. YFiflh Edition. 



COLLARS 



Plate 18. 

"T^IAGRAM A. — Point A is ^ inch in advance of shoulder; draw break line to 
-L^' end of roll, as to B by point A. 

Point C is \ inch back from shoulder; draw crease line of collar from D 
through C ; 

The stand at E is l^ inch ; 

Make width of fall to style or taste. 

Diagram B. — Same as Dia. 1. 

Diagram C. — Place lapel in a closing position, mark break to B from A ; mark 
end of collar by top of lapel, and finish as before. 

Diagram D. — B is f inch back from A ; shape seam edge through B ; 

Get length to C ; 

C to D is 1^ inch for stand. 

Finish as represented. 

Diagram E. — This is a clerical or military collar, and requires no explanation, 
except that it is slightly rounded at A and hollowed at B. It is generally cut \\ 
inch wide. 

Diagram F. — In cutting wide collars which are intended to stand up about the 
ears, close to the throat, or roll the lapels, it is necessary to hollow considerably at 
A, and to round at B as for an ordinary collar. This gives a curved crease line, and 
thi'ows extra goods along outside edge as from C to D, which enables it to lie 
smoothly about the shoulders. 



Fifth Edition.] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 18. 



46 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition 



THE NEW '^STANDARD" SCALE. 



r I ^HIS Scale is graduated on the laws of growth as found in the normal American 
-^ figure, and will produce a set of Patterns for the various Breast sizes agreeing 
with the Upper shoulder and Blade measures (with due allowances for making 
up), as found opposite to the Bi'east size on the Table of Proportion accom[)anying 
the Scale. This method gives the Cutter this advantage, in abnormal figures, 
that by taking the size of the shoulder on the Customer he can look up that 
measure in the table and select the pattern that will give the necessary size of 
shouldei", and by simply correcting the breast size, will get a good fitting pattern and 
save time. 

It has another advantage, also, that of simplicity. The letter on the Scale 
answers to the letter on the Diagram ; A on the scale is A on the Diagram ; C on 
the scale is C on the Diagram, and so throughout ; thus avoiding the confusion in- 
cident to such instructions as those given generally : — "place S on the scale at 4 and 
mark W, or place B at D and mark O at H. Add A.'' 

Widths on the figure are widths on the Scale ; depths on the figure are depths 
on the Scale, and the Scale is so arranged that the two cannot be confounded. The 
widths are on the top edge and correspond to the same letters on the widths of the 
illustrative diagrams. The depths are on the bottom edge of the Scale, and corre- 
spond to the same letters as the depths on the Diagram. Graduated Scales are 
generally incorrect, the principle being but badly understood ; as introduced by the 
elder Compaing, it was a mathematical division only and produced a 24 or a 48, 
according to mathematical progression. But this is not what the human figure 
re(]uires ; \md, moreover, those divisions wei'e based on measurements as found in 
Greek sculpture, on ideal figures, not on the measurements of the living figure of the 
time. Having an Apollo to fit of 38 chest it was perfect ; as it was also, were the 
figure increased to 83, all would l)e in mathematical pi'oportion, and if this colossal 
figure, so fitted, were placed at an elevation that the distance would diminish it to 
38, the symmetry would command admiration ; but the living figure do(!s not grow 
in height as it expands in breast measure. The law of growth is also different in 
Boyhood from that of Manhood, and after I'eaching 40 chest the change is still moi'e 
emphatically marked ; a Scale, therefore, to be of practical use to the Cutter, must 
meet these conditions of change exactly in the ratio in which they occui'. 



/^ 



Fifth Udition.] 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



4:1 



Were the human figure a mathematical one, no proi^lem would be easier of 
solution ; but its beauty, like the difficulty of covering it, is of another order — it is 
neither spherical nor conical; it is simply and inherently irregular; it is an ideal 
humanity that answeis to mathematical proportion, and certainly has not been seen 
on the earth since the palmy days of Greece in the time of Pericles. What we know 
of that time teaches us to look upon the masterpieces of art that have come down to 
us as made up of ideal combination, and not as realistic copies. Greek statuary, 
though a study for the ai'tist everywhere, gives no table of pi'oportion on which we 
can build a basis for present Works in Gutting. Ocr faUes must he gathered from 
the me((Sii)'e book — the real not the ideal. 

Moreover, in clothing a Vjivathing and moving figure, we have to do and avoid 
doing many things easy of accomplishment were we making close fitting shrouds for 
the dead. Under the veiy best of circumstances we measui-e a sui'ff ce in one dii'ec- 
tion, and have to apjdy the measure in another; and the "Science and Art" involved 
here is that of allowance found only by experience and maiiily incapable alike of 
logical and mathematical ex2)lanation. Approximation is all that we can aifii'm — 
absolute Scientific accuracy is out of the question, and, happily, is not required to 
insure success. 




;'\ 



48 



"STANDARD" WOllK ON CUTTING. 



{Fifth Edition. 



KEY to "STANDARD" SCALE. 



A 


Depth of shoulder seam on back. 








B 


^ of Scye depth. 








C 


Scye Depth. 








D 


Width of top of back. 








E 


Point to square shoulders from. 








F 


Front of Scye. 








s 


Size of breast ^ f "on ^Sf '"'°' [ 








w 


Width of back. 






1 


•5f 


Depth of Shoulder on forepart. 










The Scale will produce a Draft corresponding 


with the 


Shoulder and 


Blade measures placed opposite to the 


Breast size, with the necessary allow- 


ances. 










Breast, Shoulder and Blade 


measures 


are taken 


over the Vest. 




Shoulder and Blade measures 


as usually 


found to 


the corresponding 


Breast measure. 









TABLE OF PROPORTION. 



BREAST 


SHOEDER 


BLADE 


BREAST 


SHOniDER 


BLADE 


BREAST 


SBODLDER 


BLADE 


25 


18i 


15i 


33 


24i 


20i 


41 


29| 


25f 


26 


19 


16 


34 


25 


2U 


42 


30i 


26 


27 


19| 


16i 


35 


25i 


2]| 


43 


30^ 


26i 


28 


20^ 


17 


36 


26i 


22| 


44 


30i 


26i 


29 


21i 


I7i 


37 


27 


23i 


45 


31 


26f 


30 


22 


ISi 


38 


271 


24 


46 


3U 


27 


31 


22f 


19i 


39 


28^ 


24| 


47 


31i 


2Ti 


32 


23i 


20 


40 


29i 


25i 


48 


31f 


27i 



Mfth Edition. " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 49 



TO USE THE TABLE OF PROPORTION, 



T]"lXAMPLE 1st — Suppose we have a 36 breast and a 27 shoulder; select the 
Scale corresponding to a 27 shoulder, which is size 37, and proceed as herein- 
after directed obtaining the breast size by the actual size of breast, 36. 

Example 2d — Suppose the breast size to be 48 and the shoulder measure 31 ; 
dralt the coat by the Scale for 45 breast, which corresponds with the shoulder size 
and get the breast by the actual measure of the breast, 48. 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



THE FRAMEWORK. 



Plate 19. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 

ARE AS FOLLOWS: 

17 ] i_„.i.„ I 36 breast, 



17 ) 1 x-L I 36 breast. 
ISH '""^ ' I 32 waist.' 



SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows 
Square lines O V and O D : 
O < o A is end of Scale to A : 
O to B is end of Scale to B ; 
O to C is end of Scale to C : 
O to K is natural waist and O to V is fashionable waist ; 
Square out from A B C K and V ; 
O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G is f inch ; 
A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; 
C to E is end of Scale to E ; 
C to F is end of Scale to F ; 

F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S ; 
From K to L is 1^ breast or 2J inches. 

Place angle of square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line, locate the shoulder. 
H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; 
Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast ; 
Square up from F and E ; 
Star on line E is * on Scale from top line ; 
Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 
L to M is If inch; 
Apply waist measure to N. 



■Fifth Edition.'] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 19. 



• STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Mfth Editioii. 



FOUR-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



Plate 20. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 

ARE AS FOLLOWS : 

1^ I lengths I ^^ ^''^^^^^ 
18i f ^eogtiis, I 32 waist. 

SELECT Scale corresponcling with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V aud O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to K is natural waist and O to V is 
fashionable waist ; Square out from A B C K aud V ; O to D is end of Scale to D 
and D to Gr is I inch ; 

A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; C to E is end of Scale to 
E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; 

F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S ; Add 1 inch from S to T ; 

From K to L is |- breast or 2| inches. 

Place angle of Square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line, locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from H to S ; H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; 

Star on line E is * on Scale from top line ; 

Draw a line from shoulder point thi'ough Star ; 

Shape back as represented, raising f inch, more or less, above W, commencing 
top of sideseam \\ inch, more or less, below the notch and curving it gracefully 
through L ; 

L to M is If inch; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, I inch at blade and carrying 
it through M ; 

Get length to 1 by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder 
point ; 

Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist f inch ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of Sweep and line squared down from S as to R ; 

Apply waist measure to N and add 4^ inches from N to P. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing h inch at droop. Get width of shoulder 
by the back and shape scye. 

Shape gorge, raising f inch above I ; From shoulder point to Y is J breast ; 

Take out a small V at Y, make lapel \\ inch wide, more or less, according to 
style, and shape front through T, on a line with P, cutting away below lower button 
according to style or taste. 

Shape bottom from U to R. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.-] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




54 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 



Plate 21. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 
ARE AS FOLLOWS : 

17 ) 1 ,| I 36 breast, 
18^ [lengths, |32^^ist.' 

SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to K is natural waist and O to V is 
fashionable waist ; Square out from A B C K and V ; 

O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G is f inch ; A to W is end of Scale to 
W; square down from W ; C to E is end of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; 
F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S ; From K to L is ^ breast or 2\ 
inches. 

Place angle of Square at E with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line, locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is |- breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line ; Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 

Shajie back as repi'esented, raising f inch, more or less, above W and carrying 
sideseam through L ; L to M is If inch ; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, \ inch at blade and carry- 
ing it through M ; 

Get length to 1 by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder point ; 

Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist | inch ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of Sweep and line squared down from S as to R ; 

Apply waist measure to N and add 2\ inches from N to P. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing \ inch at droop. Get width of 
shoulder by the back and shape soye. 

Shape gorge, raising | inch above I ; From shoulder point to T is I breast ; 

Shape front from Y through S and P as represented ; 

Shape bottom rounding up \ inch from R ; 

Fjom Y to seam edge of lapel is If inch as marked ; 

Shape seam edge of lapel as represented. 

Make lapel 2 inches wide at top, 2| at breast and 2 at bottom for present styles. 
These proportions can of course be increased or diminished as desired. 

The button line is 2 inches back from S and 1^ inch back of seam at the waist. 

For present styles the holes are spaced so that the two upper ones will be 1^ 
inch farther apart than the others. This comjjletes the Draft. 



A 



Fifth Edition. 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 21. 



56 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



ONE-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



Plate 22. 
This Draft is introduced for the special purpose of showing how to proceed 
when taste or style requires an unusually high shoulder seam. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 
ARE AS FOLLOWS : 



lU'-^'"" \^S: 



SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and O D ; 

O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of Scale to B ; O to C is end of 
Scale to C ; O to K is natural waist and O to V is fashionable waist ; Square out 
from A B C K and V ; 

O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G is | inch ; A to W is end of Scale to 
W ; square down from W ; C to E is end of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; 

F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S ; S to T is 1 inch ; 

From K to L is i breast or 2^ inches. 

Place angle of Square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line, locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from H to S ; H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star 
on line E is * on Scale from top line ; Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 

Shape back as represented, raising the shoulder seam 1 inch, more or less, above 
the usual point, and curving sideseam gracefully through L ; 

Draw a line from G to | inch beyond W, or as usual for shoulder seam ; 

This line is crossed on Draft ; L to M is If inch ; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch at top, \ inch at blade and carry- 
ing it through M ; 

Get length to 1 by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder point. 

Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist f inch ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of Sweep and line squared down from S as to R ; 

Cut out the back and place point G at shoulder point, with the crossed line 
of back resting on the crossed line passing through the *. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing \ inch at droop. Get width of 
shoulder by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge, raising f inch above I ; 

From shoulder point to Y is J breast ; 

Take out a small V at Y, make lapel \\ inch wide, more or less, and shape front 
through T, cutting it away below T according to style. This completes the Draft. 




^Fifth JSditioti.] 



' STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 22. 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Mfth Edition. 

CUTAWAY AND DOUBLE BREASTED 
FROCK FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 

Plate 23. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 
ARE AS FOLLOWS : 



18], ^1 I 46 breast, 
20 [lengths, | ^g ^^^j^^/ 



SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Squai-e lines O V and O I) ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to K is natural waist and O to V is 
fashionable waist ; Squai'e out from A B C K and V ; O to D is end of Scale to D 
and D to G is I inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down fi'om W ; C to 
is end of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; F to S is end of Scale to fe; 
square down from S ; From K to L is |- breast. 

Place angle of Square at E with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line, locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line ; Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 

Shape back as represented, raising f inch, more or less, above W and carrying 
sideseam through L ; L to M is 1 J inch ; 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing ^ inch at top, ^ inch at blade and carrying 
it through M ; 

Get length to 1 by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder point ; 

Shape underarm cut, taking out at waist f inch ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of Sweep and line squared down from S as to R ; 

Apply waist measure to N and add 2| inches from N to P. 

Shape shoulder as represented, i-educing h inch at droop. Get width of shoulder 
by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge raising f inch above I ; 

From shoulder point to Y is ^ breast. 

For the Double-Breasted Frock shape the front from Y ^ inch beyond S, 
rounding nicely through P to bottom. For corpulent figures the front will necessarily 
be hollowed, more or less from Y to breast line. From Y to lapel seam is If inch ; 

fchape lapel seam as represented, curving to correspond with the forepart to 
P, and straightening it below so as to form a V at T. 

Shape bottom as represented, and take out a V of a half inch, more or less, as 
shown. 

The button line is 2 inches back from S and If inch back of seam at waist. 

The two upper holes are I5 inch farther apart than the others. This, of course, 
is a matter of taste and style. Unless for a short roll, the holes are always evenly 
spaced. 

For a Cutaway make the lapel the desired wndth and shape front thi'ough a 
point li inch beyond S, cutting away below this point as desired. 

This completes the Draft. 



^•' 



Fifth Edition.'] 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




c 

PLATE 23. 



B A 



?*>v^V\ 



\ A 



60 "STANDARD" "WORK ON CUTTING. \ Fifth Edition. 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK. 



Plate 24. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 

ARE AS FOLLOWS : 



IT 1 

18i ^lengths, 
29iJ 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to Y is natural waist and O to V is full 
length ; O to U is always 30 inches ; 
Square out from A B C Y and U ; 
O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G is f inch ; 
A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; 
C to E is end of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to ¥ ; 
F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S ; S to T is I inch ; 

From Y to L is ^ breast; square down from L. 

Shape back, hollowing I inch at Y, commencing top of sideseam ^ breast, more 
or less, above breast line and curving it gracefully thi'ough L. 

P to R is yi^ breast ; L to M is H inch. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top, curving it gracefully through 
M and slightly rounding over the hip to R. 

Place angle of Squai'e at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from H to S ; H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; 

Star on line E is * on Scale from top line ; 

Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 

Sweep from bottom of sideseam by shoulder point, as to N. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing \ inch at droop. Get width of shoulder 
by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge raising f inch above I ; 

From shoulder point to 2 is :^ breast. 

Take out a small V at 2, make lapel desired width and shape front through T to 
K, which is the junction of the line squared across from U and the line squared 
down from S. Square down from F ; 

Point 1 at pocket is 7| inches, more or less, according to length of coat, above 
the bottom. 

Mark top of pocket parallel with bottom of coat, and divide the width, usually 
6^ inches, equally on each side of 1. 

Take out a V from scye to pocket mouth, making it \ inch wide at the waist. 

Shape bottom as represented. 

The broken, crossed line represents the regular straight front, and the solid line 
a Four-Button Cutaway. 

This completes the Draft. 



/' 



/ 



•Fifth IJdition.] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



61 




PLATE 24. 



Vn:^^\\ , 



62 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. \mfth Edition. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK. 



Plate 25. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE 

PAGE ARE AS FOLLOWS: 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



17 1 

18^ )- lengths, 

30 J 

SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows ; 
Square lines O U and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to Y is natural waist and O to U is full 
length ; Square out from A B C Y and U ; O to D is end of Scale to D, and D to 
G is I inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; C to E is end 
of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; F to S is end of Scale to S ; square 
down from S. 

Place angle of Square [at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; 

Draw a line from H to S ; H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star 
on line E is * on Scale from top line. Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; 
From Y to L is ^ breast ; square d.own from L. 

Shape back, hollowing \ inch at Y, commencing top of sideseam \ breast, more 
or less, above breast line, and curving it gi-acefully through L to P. 

P to R is J^ breast ; L to M is 1^ inch. 
Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top, curving it gracefully through 
M and slightly rounding over the hip to R ; 

Sweep from bottom of sideseam by shoulder point as to N. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing \ inch at droop. Get width of 
shoulder by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge through f inch above I ; 
From shoulder point to 2 is J breast. 

Take out a V at 2, shape top of lapel as desired, and make it 2A inches wide, 
more or less, according to taste or style. From K to V is 1 inch ; 

From S to T is 3 inches, and V to T is the same ; Shape front as represented. 

The buttons are as far back from S as the distance from S to center of holes. 

Square down from F ; 

Point 1 is 8 inches, more or less, according to length of coat above the bottom. 

Mark the top of pocket parallel with bottom of coat and divide the width 
usually 6^ inches, equally on each side of \. 

Take out a V from scye to pocket mouth, making it \ inch wide at the waist ; 

Shape bottom as as represented. This completes the Draft. 



/ 



Fifth Editioh 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATEj 125. 



( 

^V^^' 



64 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. IFiflh Edition. 

SACK FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 26. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE 
ARE AS FOLLOWS : 



17 1 

\%\ lengths, 

31 



46 breast, 
50 waist. 



SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; 

O to Y is natural waist, O to V is fashionable waist and O to U is 30 inches always; 

Squai'e out from A B C Y U and V ; O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G 
is \ inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; squai'e down from W; C to E is end of 
Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down 
from S ; S to T is one inch. 

Place angle of Square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line ; Draw a line from shoulder point through Star ; From Y to L is ^ breast ; 
square down from L. 

Shape back, hollowing \ inch at Y, commencing top of sideseam \ breast, more 
or less, above breast line and curving it gracefully through L. 

P to R is J^ breast ; L to M is 1| inch. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top, curving it gracefully through 
M and slightly rounding over the hip to R. 

Sweep from bottom of sideseam by the shoulder point as to N. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing \ inch at droop. Get width of shoulder 
by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge through f inch above I ; From shoulder 
point to 2 is i breast ; Shape from T to K as for a regular form. 

Point 3 is far enough advanced for a figure measuring 1 inch more at waist 
than at breast. 

As the waist measure we are using is 4 inches larger than the breast, point 3 is 
therefore 3 inches too small, or \\ inch on each side; 

For this reason we enlarge \\ inch from 3 to 4. 

Now add for lapel from 2 and shape front as represented, indenting a trifle at end 
of break, curving through T and 4 and running parallel with original or dotted line 
from 4 down. Square down from F ; Point 1 at pocket is 8 inches above the bottom ; 

Mark top of pocket parallel witli bottom of coat and divide the width 6f for 
this size, equally on each side of 1. 

Make a straight cut from scye to pocket as marked, open the forepart at scye as 
much as the distance is from 3 to 4 and press down the surplus paper thus forced 
to bottom ; see broken lines, then shape bottom. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth i:dition.] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



65 




PLATE 26. 






<v , 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



FLY-FRONT OVERSACK. 



Plate 27. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE ARE 
AS FOLLOWS, TAKEN OVER THE COAT : 

17 "I 38 breast. 

18* j- lengths, 

38 J 

SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O U and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; 

O to Y is natural waist, O to V is full length and O to U is 36 inches always ; 

Square out from A B C U and V ; O to D is end of Scale to D and D to G is 1 
inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; C to E is end of Scale 
to E ; C to F 18 end of Scale to F ; F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down fi'om S. 

Place angle of Square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to PL 
Where the line E H crosses the tojj line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line ; Draw a line from shouldei- point thi'ougli Star ; From Y to L is ^ breast ; 
square down from L. 

Shape back, hollo^^^ng J inch at Y and spi'inging out 1 inch from U through to 
V, commencing top of sideseam |^ breast, more or less, above breast line and curving 
it gracefully through L and P to bottom. 

P to R is 1 breast ; L to M is 1| inch ; 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at toj), cui-viug it gracefully 
through M and slightly rounding over the hip through R to bottom. 

Sweep from bottom of sideseam by shouldei- point, as to 3. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing I inch at droop. Get width of shoul- 
der by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge thi'ough J inch above I ; From 
shoulder point to 2 is :^ breast ; 

Take out a V at 2, shape top of lapel as desired and make it 2 inches wide, 
more or less, according to taste or style. From N to K is 1^ inch; 

From S to T is 2 inches and K to 4 is the same; Shape front as represented. 

The buttons are as far back f i-om S as the distance from S to center of holes ; 
Square down from F; Point 1 is 12i inches, more or less, from bottom of scye. 

Mai'k the top of pocket parallel with bottom of coat and divide the width, 
usually 7 inches, equally on each side of 1. Take out a V from scye to pocket 
mouth, making it \ inch wide at the waist. Shape bottom as represented. 

This completes the Draft. 



) 
J 



I-ifth Miition.] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



67 




PLATE 27. 






STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \_Fifth Edition. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED OVERSACK. 



Plate 28. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE ARE 

AS FOLLOWS, TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 

17 ^ 38 breast, 

18^ }- lengths, 34 waist. 
38 J 

SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O U and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; 

O to Y is natural waist, O to V is full length, and O to U is 36 inches always ; 
Square out from A B C Y U and V ; O to D is end of Scale to D, and D to G is f 
inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; C to E is end of Scale 
to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F; F to S is end of Scale to S ; square down from S. 

Place angle of Square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. 
Where the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shouldei' point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line; Draw a line from shoulder point thi'ough Star; From Y to L is \ breast; 
square down from L. 

Shape back, hollowing \ inch at Y, and springing out 1 inch from U through 
to V, commencing top of sideseam \ breast, more or less, above bi'east line and 
curving it gracefully through L and P to bottom. 

P to R is -^ breast ; L to M is 1| inch. 

Shape sideseam of forepart, reducing a seam at top, curving it gracefully 
through M and slightly rounding ovei' the hip through R to bottom. 

Sweep from bottom of sideseam by shoulder point, as to 3. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing h inch at droop. Get width of 
shoulder by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge through | inch above I ; From 
shoulder point to 2 is \ breast. 

Take out a V at 2, shape top of lapel as desired and make it 3 inches wide, 
more or less, according to taste or style. From N to K is 1^ inch; From S to T is 
3 inches, and K to 4 is the same ; Shape front as represented. 

The buttons are as far back from S as the distance from S to center of holes ; 
Square down from S. 

Point 1 is 1 2^ inches, more or less, from bottom of scye. 

Mark the top of pocket parallel with bottom of coat and divide the width, 
usually 7 inches, equally on each side of 1. 

Take out a V frcm scye to pocket mouth, making it ^ inch wide at the waist.. 
Shape bottom as represented. 

This completes the Draft. 



4-^ 



Fifth Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



H-- 




PLATE 28. 






10 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fiffh EdHiou. 

KNIGHTS' TEMPLAR COAT; GRAND 
OFFICER. 



Plate 29. 

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE ARE 

AS FOLLOWS: 



31 sleeve. 



30 breast, 
32 waist. 



17 ^ 

18i - lengths, 

37iJ 

SELECT Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and O D ; O to A is end of Scale to A ; O to B is end of 
Scale to B ; O to C is end of Scale to C ; O to K is natural waist and O to V is 
fashionable waist ; Square out from A B C K and V ; O to D is end of Scale to D, 
and D to G I inch ; A to W is end of Scale to W ; square down from W ; C to E is 
end of Scale to E ; C to F is end of Scale to F ; F to S is end of Scale to S ; square 
doAvn from S ; From K to L is ^ breast or 2 J inches. 

Place angle of square at E, with one arm touching B, and mark up to H. Where 
the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder. 

H is the width of top of back from shoulder point ; Draw a line from H to S ; 
H to I is ^ breast ; Square up from F and E ; Star on line E is * on Scale from top 
line ; Draw a line from shoulder point through Star. 

Shape back as rei)resented, raising f inch, more or less, above W and carrying 
sideseam through L; L to M is If inch. 

Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing { inch at top, i inch at blade and carry- 
ing it through M. 

Get length to I by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder 
point. 

Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist f inch ; 

Draw a line from U to junction of sweep and line squared down from S as to R ; 

Apply waist measure to N and add 2 inches from N to P. 

Shape shoulder as represented, reducing I inch at droop. Get width of 
shoulder by the back and shape scye. Shape gorge through I ; From shoulder 
point to 2 is I breast and ^ inch ; Shape front from 2 through S and P as repre- 
sented ; Shape bottom rounding up I inch from R; From 2 to 3 is If inch ; Shape 
the seam edge of lapel as represented ; From 3 to ■! is 3 inclies ; from 5 to 6 is 3| 
inches and from 8 to 9 is 2.^ inches. 

Space lapel for eleven holes and brush out the fourth and eighth, leaving three 
clusters of three holes as shown. 

The buttons ai-e placed 2| inches back from S and 2 inches back from 8. 

This completes the Draft. 



/' ' 



Fifth Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTINc;. 



71 




PLATE 29. 



'i'-i "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fift/, JSditioti. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

r I IHEIIE are some cutters who prefer measui-ing over a Coat to measuring over 
-L tlie Vest. Good results may l)e obtained by measui'es taken in this way if 
tlie Coat measured over is a good fitting garment, not mucli padded in the slioulders 
and of a medium weight. The necessary additions to measures, when taken over 
a coat, are as follows : 

To depth of seye add f inch ; 

To front of scye add 1 inch ; 

To first ovci- measuje add ^ inch ; 

Deduct from second over measure ^ inch. 

The following Table of proportionate sizes will be useful as a guide to correct 
measurement and in cutting proportionate patterns: 

MEASURES AS TAKEN ON THE VEST. 



^EAST. 


DEPTH. 


FRONT. 


1 ST OVER. 


2 1) OVER. 


33 


7i 


lOi 


lOf 


15i 


34 


8 


lOJ 


11 


16 


35 


8i 


lOi 


lU 


16i 


36 


8i 


Hi 


llf 


17 


37 


8| 


111 


12 


in 


38 


8^ 


12 


12i 


in 


39 


9 


12f 


m 


171 


40 


H 


12f 


i2f 


18i 


41 


9| 


m 


13 


18.^ 


42 


91 


m 


m 


ISf 


43 


9f 


13i 


13A 


19 


44 


9f 


13f 


13| 


19i 


45 


10 


13| 


14 


19^ 


46 


lOi 


13f 


141 


19| 


47 


IGi 


13f 


\U 


20 


48 


lOi 


14 


141 


m 



Above 40 chest the size of the shoulders increases slowly, and the variation 
will be found very exti-eme in dift'eient districts ; no Table of Measures can do 
more than give an appi-oxiraation ; the Pi-ofessiunal classes will measure, as a rule, 
smaller than what is considered Normal, while in the Lumber districts the shoulder 
size will be very large, as will those generally whose daily avocations call for steady 
use of the aims. 

The measures for an Overcoat should be taken over the Coat ; but, in case only 
the measures over the Vest are available, the following additions must be made : 

To dei)th of scye add 1^ inch ; 

To fi'ont of scye add 2 inches ; 



X 



Ftfth Edition.'] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 73 

To first over measure add H inch ; 

To second over measure add \\ inch. 

Should a change of style require w^ider backs than given in these drafts, then 
make the backs wider. Width of back, within reasonable limits, has nothing to do 
with tlie fit. For a short, corpulent figure, say, for instance, a man 5 feet 6 inches in 
height and 45 breast, it is always well to cut the back narrower than ^ and -^^ breast, 
because it will give him narrower shoulders, and make him appear less stout. The 
\ and Y^j would give a width of about 9f inches ; but 8f will be wide enongh, and 
will improve his appearance. No change need be made in di'afting the sleeve, as the 
increased size of arm hole will enlarge it sufficiently. 

By way of caution, it may be well to remark that the sidebody should never be 
reduced more than \ inch from back at the blade, as, if it is tight there, the Coat will 
swing at the waist and show fullness at back scye. 

In cutting Vests for corpulent figures a V slionld be taken out from bottom to 
pocket, or, which is as well, the forepai't should be cut through from side to end of 
pocket, opened out at sideseam from i to 1 inch, and the surplus paper pressed 
down at bottom. 



74 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 

Plate 30. 

MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

8^ depth of scye, I 10^ opening, t 11 front of scye, I 36 breast, 

17 nat. waist, | 25^ full length, | llf first over, j 32 waist, 

19^ front balance, 

19| back balance. 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye lA incli ; to first over 1 inch ; to front 
balance 1 inch and to back balance \ inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 

DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 

9^ depth of scye, I 10^ opening, I 12^ front of scye, I 36 breast, 

17 nat. waist, | 25^ full length, | 12f first over, | 32 waist, 

20A front balance, 

19f back balance. 

[It is not genei'ally necessary to use the second over measiire, but for extra high 

or sloping shoulders it should be used the same as for a Coat, adding to it only ^ inch. 

The 20-25 measure can be used instead of the second ovei' the same as for a Coat. 

Either of these measures is valuable for disproportions.] 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O V and O D ; From O to C is depth of scye, 9| ; 
B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural waist ; O to D is ^ breast -and a 
good seam ; square up from D f inch ; Square out from B C and K ; B to W is ^ and 
yV breast; square up from W ; C to F is front of scye measure, 12| ; C to S is half 
breast, and S to T is 2i inches; Square down from T and sweep up from the same 
point by point C, for run of front above breast line ; Squai'e up from F ; 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, that is V2\; j^lace this amount at 
B with the angle of square touching the breast line, as at E, and square up by the 
other arm as at H ; F to H is first over, 12f ; Shape top of back, making it i inch 
wider than to the | inch line, and reducing it a seam at O ; H to I is width of top 
of back ; Draw a line from I to B ; Shape shoulder seam of back through 1, adding 
f inch beyond line W for width ; Make shoulder seam of forepart to 2 one-quarter 
inch narrower than shoulder seam of back ; Shape scye, clearing line F i inch ; 

Get opening, adding f inch for seams, and full length adding 1 inch for seams 
and making ; Square across from N ; Divide Di-aft into halves as to R and square 
down ; Takeout 1 inch on each side of line at natural waist as to L and M ; Shape 
backseam, reducing f inch at K ; Shape under-arm cut from G thi'ough L and M ; 
Y is ^ breast from bottom line ; shape bottom ; Square across from Y to V for 
bottom of back ; Shape gorge and collar as represented. 

Now apply front and back balance measures to a point or points | waist from 
front and back lines, as follows: From H to M is front balance 20A, and O to L is 
back balance 19|. If points L and M do not fall opposite each other, place them 
even and cut down the scye of back or front to match, changing at the^same time 
the length of back from scye to bottom as required. For regular figui-es L and M 
will meet when the seam is closed, but for the extra erect L should be higher than M, 
making it necessary to lower the back, while for the stooping L will be lower than 
M, making it necessary to raise the back. These measures are used only on Block 
Patterns. This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.] 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



^5 




< 



76 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [i^-/?A Edition. 



VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 31. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

91 depth of scye, 1 14 opening, I 18 front of scye, | 43 breast, 
18^ nat. waist, | 28 full length, | 13^ first over, | 47 waist, 

21f front balance, 

22 J back balance. 

TO these measures add as follows : 
To depth of scye 1 inch ; to front of scye \\ inch ; to first over 1 inch ; to front 
balance 1 inch and to back balance \ inch. 

THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 
10^ depth of scye, I 14 opening, 1 14| front of scye, I 43 breast, I 22f, front bal. 
18| nat. waist, | 28 full length, | 14i first over, { 47 waist, 22^, back bal. 

TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines O V and O D ; 

O to C is depth of scye, 10^ ; B is half-way between O and C ; O to K is natural 
waist ; O to D is ^ bi'east and a good seam ; square up from D | inch ; Square out 
from B C and K ; B to W is ^ and yV breast ; square up fi'om W ; C to F is froot 
of scye measure, 14i ; C to S is half breast, and S to T is 24 inches ; 

Square down from T and sweep up from the same point by point C, for lun of 
front above breast line ; Square iip from F ; Take \ inch less than front of scye 
measure, that is, 14^ ; place this amount at B with the angle of square touching the 
breast line, as at E, and square up by the other arm as to H ; F to H is first over, 
14^ ; Shape top of back, making it \ inch wider than to the | line, and reducing it a 
seam at O ; H to I is width of top of back ; Draw a line from I to B ; Shape shoulder 
seam of back through 1, adding % inch beyond line W for width; Make shoulder 
seam of forepart to 2 one-quarter inch narrower than shoulder seam of back ; Shape 
scye, clearing line F \ inch ; 

Get opening, adding f inch foi' seams, and full length, adding 1 inch for seams 
and making; Square across from N; 

Divide Draft into halves as to R and square down. 

[For proportionate forms it is assumed that the half waist is 2 inches less than 
the half breast.] 

When half waist is 2 or more inches less than half breast, the entire difference 
is taken out under the arm ; but when it is less than 2 inches smaller, proceed as 
follows : mark 1 inch on eaeh side of centre line at waist, — this makes half waist 2 
inches smaller than half breast, — then add \ inch at front and | inch to back and 
forepai't under arm for each inch until the half waist size is obtained. Example — 
Half breast 21^, half waist 23^; mark the inch points under arm as at L and M, this 
gives a 19^ waist which is normal, but we want a 23i waist or 4 inches more, 
therefore, add four halves or 2 inches at front, as to 4, and \ or 1 inch as from M 
and the same as from L. 

Shape backseam, reducing f inch at K ; Apply waist measure to 4, adding 1 
inch for seams ; Y is ^ breast from bottom line ; Square across from Y to V for 
bottom of back ; Shape front through T and 4 as represented ; Shape gorge and 
collar as represented. 

Point M is half waist from backseam with seams allowed. Apply back and 
front balance measures to M as explained for Plate 18. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition.'] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



11 




PLATE 31. 



78 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED VESTS. 



Plate 32. 
MEASURES AS TAKEN OVER THE VEST. 

8^ depth of scye, I ,-,- , , ,^ ,i | 11 front of scye, I 36 breast, 
i nat. waist, | - '^ ' | 11| first over, | 32 waist. 
[The front and back balance measures are omitted, as they are unnecessary for 
regular forms.] 

TO these measures add as follows: 
To depth of scye I inch ; to front of scye 1^ inch ; to first over 1 inch. 
THE MEASURES, WITH THE ADDITIONS AND AS USED IN 
DRAFTING, ARE NOW AS FOLLOWS: 
9i depth of scye, I ip„o.M, I 12^ front of scye, I 36 breast, 

17 nat. waist, | ■"''■' ^«"a"'' | loj fi,.st over, | 32 waist. 

TO DRAFT.— Upper Diagram. 

C'ommeuce by squaring lines O V and O D ; 
_ O to C is half scye, 9A ; B is half-way between O and D ; O to K is natural 
waist ; O to D is |^ breast and a good seam ; square up fi'om D | inch ; Square out 
from B_C and K ; B to W is \ and ^ breast ; C to F is front of scye measure, i 1\ ; 
C to S is half breast, and S to T is 2 inches ; Square down from T and sweep up 
from the same point by point C, for run of front above breast line ; Square uj) from F. 

Take \ inch less than front of scye measure, that is, 12^; place this amount at 
B, with tlie angle of square touching the breast line, as at E, and square up by tlie 
'other arm as to H ; F to H is first over, 12f ; Shape top of back, making it \ inch 
wider than to the f line, and reducing it a seam at O ; L[ to I is width of top of 
back ; Draw a line from H to T ; T to R is i breast ; Draw a line from I to B ; 
Shape shoulder seam of back through 1, adding | inch beyond line W for widtli ; 
Make shoulder seam of forepart to 2 one-quarter inch narrower than shoulder seam 
of back ; 

Shape scye, clearing line F \ inch ; N is full length and 1 inch for making ; 
Square across from N ; 

G is i inch more than half-way from C to T ; Square down from-half way be- 
!^ween C and T. 

Take out 2 inches at waist, that being the difference between half waist and 
half breast. This locates L and M each 1 inch from center line. 

Shape backseam, reducing | inch at K; Shape under-arm cut from G through 
L and M ; Y is i breast from 3 ; Square across from Y to V for bottom of back ; 
Sliape gorge from I through R to sweep ; Shape front, curving slightly from T to 

Shape lapel seam, making the space between it and the forepart at goi-ge f inch ; 
Shape lapiel, making it 3A inches wide at breast. If at bottom, and to style or 
taste, sa>' 2 inches at top ; Mai'k the buttons \\ inch back of line T N. 

Point R is depth of gorge for single-breasted Vests which buttou to the throat. 
The collar is drafted as for a frock, except that | inch is suflicient for the stand. 
This completes the Draft. 

THE LOWER DRAFT. 

This is produced in the same way as the one just explained, the only difference 
being that the lapel is cut to forepart and the collar shaped as represented. 
It needs no explanations. 



F^Jth EJ!tion:\ " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



79 




PLATE 32. 



80 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

SINGLE-BREASTED VEST.— BY THE SCALE. 



Plate 33. 
THE MEASURES ARE AS FOLLOWS: 



10^ opening, 
25i length, 
17 nat. waist, 



36 breast, 
32 waist. 



SELECT Scale correspondini; with the breast measure and proceed as follows : 
Square lines O V and O D ; 
O to A is end of Scale to A ; 
O to B is end of Scale to B ; 
O to C is end of Scale to C ; 
O to K is natural waist ; 
Square across from ABC and K ; 

O to D is end of Scale to D ; square up from D | inch ; 
A to W is end of Scale to W ; square up from W ; 
C to E is end of Scale to E ; 
C to F is end of Scale to F ; 
C to S is half breast and S to T is 2^ inches. 

Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and square up to H. Where 
the line E H crosses the top line locate the shoulder point. 
Square down from T and up from F and E ; "> 

* on line E is end of Scale to *; 

* on line W is end of Scale to * from line A ; 

Shape backseam, reducing a seam at O and hollowing at K f inch ; 

Shape top of back, inci'easing width \ inch beyond the line squared up from D ; 

Shape shoulder seam through * and shape scye to center, commencing f inch 
beyond line W ; 

Shape shoulder seam of forepart through *, make it \ inch naiTower than 
shouldei' seam of back and complete the scye, clearing line F ^ inch ; 

Draw a line from H to T ; 

H to I is ^ bi'east ; 

Sweep up from T by point C ; 

Shape gorge for military vest through 1, and where sweep intersects it will be 
the end of collar ; 

Get length, adding f inch for opening and 1 inch for full length as to N ; 

Square back from N ; 

R is half-way between C and T ; 

Squai-e down from R ; 

L to M is the difference between half waist and half breast (2 inches) equally 
divided on each side of center line ; 

Shajie under-arm cut from G through L and M; 

Y is ^ breast above C. 

Shape bottom of forepart and back as represented. 

Shape gorge and collar. 

This completes the Draft. 



>/ 



:^fth Mition.] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



81 




PLATE 33. 



Fifth Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 83 



TROUSERS. 



IT would appear a very simple matter to drape the leg and form a wrap around 
the seat and waist ; but, simple as the problem appears, a good fitting pair of 
Trousers is rare to see. " Infallible " Systems nevertheless reckon by the thousands 
and their apparent diversity is increased to the eye by front, centre and side seam 
balance lines ; yet they are mainly founded on the same primitive idea, varied only in 
the slant of the seat line ; when the variation grows outrageoiis, the back part is 
frequently thrown out correspondingly at the bottom of the side seam with the sweep 
of a scimitar, and a shape is arrived at that fits nothing human, compelling the fronts 
to become an exhibition of creases. 

Had we any practical method of measuring the angle from the instep to the 
fork allowing for the bend of knee and the lobe of the seat, we should only have to 
bring the waist to measure, and all our diflficulties would be solved ; but as it is, 
this is a matter of experience and judgment ; and theoretical agreement seems about 
as impossible as practical divergence. 

We have given two drafts ; the first is somewhat novel and is an attempt to 
govern each portion of the garment by its measure on the form ; — Bottom, Seat and 
Waist. It is more self varying than usual and produces for all shapes a graceful and 
easy fit. 

The second is one of the best practical methods which we know of, founded on 
geneially received ideas, corrected by the light of our experience. Theoretical dis- 
putants have grown grey, and have left the question of " open and close cut " still 
unsolved; yet the mystery lies within a very narrow compass. "How much shall 
the angle be opened ?" 

As the angle of the leg seam is opened the side seam is shortened ; as the angle 
of the leg seam is closed the side seam is lengthened ; when the side seam is short 
horizontal creases will appear on the top side from fork to knee, too much cloth is 
apparent up and down the leg, but a smooth back part is given, easy for riding or to 
sit down in ; but otherwise full of fatal objections ; when the side seam is long there 
will be tightness at knee when the leg is in motion, sitting down or going up stairs 
the constraint becomes annoying; a too crooked seat line will cause the goods to bag 
at the seat and the fork will look too full ; too straight a seat line will also cause 
want of ease in sitting or stooping and the pantaloons will bulge at the knee. 

We have endeavored to steer mid-channel between the rocks. 

Other faults than those spoken of are mainly owing to want of unison in the 
lines of front and back parts, or to bad making up. 



84 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



TROUSERS. 

Plate 34. 



f Outside seam, 41 1; fSeat, 36; 
MEASURES^ Inseam, 32; \ Knee, 17; 

1^ Waist, 31; ^Bottom, 17. 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

FRONT PART. 

DRAW line A; mark off inseam 32, outside 4U ; and square out at bottom 
about 4 inches; Mark off on tliis line \ of entire bottom (17 on Gths); 

From this point sweej) by length of inseam at B across for crotch, and by out- 
side seam at C for waist ; 

From B on crotch sweep, mark off ^ of waist on thirds ; also, \ seat on halves, 
less \ inch ; Mark this point by * ; 

Fi-oai * mark off also jij— and \ of seat at D (18 on 12ths and 18 on 8ths) ; 

The crotch point is at the \ ; 

At -^ lay angle ol' square, one arm touching at B, and square down by the other 
ai-m at E ;" From D to E 32 ; Knee is 14 inches down from D ; 

Square across by line E ; 

Form inseam from D, reducing at knee \ inch, as illustrated ; 

From the \ at bottom through \ on crotch sweep, draw line to sweep of waist 
at O; 

From O to top of fly \ of waist (15i on 6ths) ; 

Draw line to * and shape fork, as illustrated ; undress side as per dotted lines ; 

Make waist \ inch less than \ oi \ waist (7i) from top of fly ; 

Form top of side seam, giving the hip a gentle curve ; 

From E, the bottom is 7i inches ; 

Form side seam, dropping \ inch ; Shrinking line is at \ of bottom ; 

Hollow instej) and cut out front part. 

BACK PART. 

Place front part in position and extend sweeps at D B C ; 

Mark out from D J^ of seat (18 on 12ths), which gives crotch point of back 
part ; Rise \ of seat at O for top of waist ; 

From O \ waist and 1 inch — 8f inches gives top of side seam on back part; 
From this point make waist to measure allowing for seams and slash ; From seat 
line at waist, draw line to undress side at crotch and shape crotch as illustrated ; 
From E, \ of bottom, 8^ inches, for bottom of side seam ; 

Make bottom at leg seam to measure 17, allowing f for seams, I7f inches; 

Form inseam, giving 1 inch at knee; Allow for seams and make knee at side 
seam to measure ; 

From * on crotch sweep, measure front part to side "seam. Lay this measure 
where crotch curve meets seat line and measure to B ^ of seat 18 — add 1^ or 2 
inches foi' making up as desired, and finish draft as illustrated. Measure from fork 
and make notch of back at knee same length as that of front part ; from knee, 
measure to bottom, allowing \ inch on back part. 



Fifth Edition.} 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 




Vb^ias^ 



PLATE 34. 



80 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \Fifth Edition. 



TROUSERS. 

Plate 35. 
SECOND DRAFT. 

r Outside seam 40 f Waist 32 

MEASURES.^ Inseam 30^ \ Knee 16 

1 Seat 36 ^Bottom 16 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

FRONT PART. 

DRAW line A — square out at C ; 
Mark off inseam 30^ at D — outside seam 40 at E — square each across ; 

On line D mark off } seat (18 on fourths) also \ (18 on halves); 

Square up and down for line B ; 

Make bottom width desired, say 7 inches ; 

* is the centre of bottom — from \ of seat to * at bottom draw centre line — 
sweep from * by inseam length on line B at crotch ; and on sweep make crotch point 
\ of seat (18 on 8ths); 

Shape fork as illustrated ; 

Undress side as per dotted lines ; 

Knee is at 13:^ from crotch ; square across by line B — % inch from centre line 
toward inseam make * and form knee equal on each side of * ; 

Form inseam as illustrated ; 

Shrinking line is at 2| from side seam ; 

Cut out fore part. 

BACK PART. 

Place front part in position — extend lines at bottom and knee — also at sweep of 
crotch — crotch of back part is at -^^ of seat (18 on 12ths); 

Knee of back part is f of an inch out at leg seam ; make knee to measure allow- 
ing for seams ; bottom at equal distance from * allowing for seams ; 

Form inseam ; 

On line D on front part square up from side seam on 12ths as illustrated ; 

From where this line cuts waist line, measure back \ of seat (18 on 4ths) for 
top of side seam of back part ; 

Make waist to measure allowing for seams and slash — draw seat line to \ of 
crotch on front part — shape crotch and seat seam as illustrated ; 

Measure across for size of seat allowing H or 2 inches as desii'ed for making up ; 

Form side seam —measure for notch of hind part, equal to notch on front at 
knee — from notches at knee, measure to bottom allowing \ more on back part and 
finish draft as illustrated. 



Fifth Edition.] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



87 




PLATE 35. 



88 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fi^th Edition. 

TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. 



Plate 36. 
THE MEASURES USED ARE AS FOLLOWS 



43 outside seam, 
31| inside seam, 



20 knee, I 44 seat, 
19 bottom, 46 waist. 



TO DRAFT FOREPART. 

COMMENCE by squaring lines A M and A B ; 
A to B is outside seam ; B to C is inside seam ; 

D is 2 inches less than half-way between C and B ; 

Square across from C D and B ; 

C to F is half seat ; F to G is ^ seat ; '"' 

Square up and down from F ; 

H is half-way between C and F ; 

Fi'om I to K is 7 inches ; 

T is half-way between I and K ; 

Draw a line from T up through H. 

For Ti'ousei-s so large at bottom as these add i inch from I to R, and the same 
fi'om K to P. L is f inch back from G ; 

Draw a line for inside seam from L to R; From U to V is half knee. 

It is assumed that point M is right for all sizes where the waist is four inches 
oi' more smaller than the seat. For every size over that \ inch is added. As the 
seat measure we are using is 44 and the waist is 46, the waist is 6 sizes over pro- 
portion, because 4 inches less than seat would give 40 waist. We therefore call 
point M 40, and add | until we have f as to N. 

N to O is half waist. 

Shape front as I'epresented, rounding more or less according to the form to 
be fitted, and raising above N to make tops square when the fronts are closed. 

Shape sideseam from O thi'ough C and V to P, hollowing a trifle at ankle ; 

Cut out the Forepart. 

TO DRAFT UNDERSIDE. 

Sweep from A by the knee ; 

Extend cross lines at seat, knee and bottom ; 

From R to K is half bottom and A inch, and from P to I is the same ; 

Add I inch for making on each side at knee ; 

Add 1 inch at hip as to C ; M to N is | seat ; 

Draw a line from B, which is half-way between F and G (see Forepart), up 
through N ; N to O is i^ seat ; 

O to F is half waist on Division of Halves and 1 inch for seams; 

Shape sideseam from F through C to K as represented ; 

Shape top fi-om F to O ; G to U is -^^ seat ; 

Shape seatseam from O to U, passing through G. 

Shape inside seam as represented. 

This completes the Draft. 



Fifth Edition:] " STANDARD » WORK ON CUTTING. 




PLATE 36. 



90 « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



BREECHES. 

Plate 37. 

IT must be always borne in mind tliat this Garment is required to be easy in the 
sitting posture : plenty of room in the seat without being full in the lap when 
on Horseback or on the Bicycle. The kueo should be gripped tightly, taking care to 
have length enough from fork to knee, without riding up when the knee is bent and 
the wearer is in the riding position. The top part should be held easy to the under 
pai't from above the knee to the Ijottom, and the fullness well pressed in so as to 
form a knee ; cut on a round on each side of the knee on the top part, and press it 
well in before basting them together; that is, make a knee in the Breeches to 
receive the knee when bent ; this is especially desirable in Bicycle Breeches, the 
knee being lifted so high. 

Outside seam 27, | Waist 32, 

Inseam 17^, \ Above knee 14|, 

g (^ Seat 36, " ( Garter 13^. 

DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. 

TO DRAFT THE FRONT PART. 

DRAW line A B 27 inches ; square back from B ; 
From B to C is 17i; square back from C ; from C to E is \ of seat (18 on 
4ths) ; 

From E to D the same ; from [E square down to J and up to O ; K to L is \ 
knee, 6| inches ; equal on each side of J, 3f ; 

Make K a pivot and sweep from C to F ; from C to F is |^ of seat (18 on 8ths); 

From \ inch in advance of A, form fork to F as illustrated, hollowing it more 
than in Pantaloons for the greater ease required in the sitting posture ; 

Undress as illustrated ; 

From D to G is yV (18 on 12ths); 

From A to I is ^ of the waist less \ inch ; 

Form inseam with gentle curve from F to K, slightly rounding at about 6 inches 
from the bottom ; 

Form the bottom of front part at knee on the round as illustrated ; this must 
be shrunk in to a straight line, before sewing on the garter, and is a great help in 
making up a good form to the knee ; 

Form side seam from I through D to L ; 

Drop at point A \ inch and cut out Front part. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK PART. 

Place the front part in position and extend sweep from F to N; 

From L sweep from D to S and I to R ; 

From F to N is yV of seat and a seam ; 

Form inseam as illustrated ; 

From H to R is ^ of seat and 1 inch ; O to P is |^ of seat ; from R through P 
make waist to measure allowing for seams and slash ; 

Draw line from U to point half way between C and F ; 

Form seat seam to N as illustrated ; 

From D to S is \.\ inch in all cases. 

Make size above knee to measure allowing for seams ; 

From L to M is ^ inch in all cases ; form side seam as illustrated ; hollow bot- 
tom of under part and stretch to the required size of Garter ; 

Cut on button catch ; make Garter \ inch wide when made up. 

Bicycle garter should be 2 inches wide when made up, and the full length of 
the Breeches should at least be cut one inch longer so as to catch hard on the top of 
the calf. 



Fiflh Edition.'] 



■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



91 




PLATE 37. 



92 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \Fifth Edition. 



GAITERS. 

A GAITER is a very small thing, but how few fit nicely ; they crease on the in- 
step, or are loose at the top generally ; an easy, graceful, close fitting Gaiter 
is the exception to the rule and is only found on a well formed foot. 

This is to be attributed to the methods laid down for their construction ; from 
a given line forward and backward mark off fixed quantities to form the curve of 
the instep and the shape of the hind seam, opening or closing the draft to fill the 
measure ; if the human foot always came up to the ideal standard of the modeler, 
this method would be as universally effective as it is now defective; there is no fact 
better known than that a model foot is a curiosity. 

We propose a new departure, both in taking the measures and in applying them 
to the draft ; easy, simple and certain. 

TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 

Place a short square, one arm resting on the floor in the same direction with 
the length of the foot; the angle towards the heel and the other arm pressed against 
it; call off the measure at the hollow above the heel (3|^) and the full length of the 
gaiter to the top 5^; then the two indentations- -the one at the hollow and the 
other at the top — in this instance, each is | of an inch ; size around the top 10^ ; 
around the instep 12; diagonally from heel around the instep 14^ — size of bottom 
20. 



SHORT GAITERS. 

Plate 38. 

Hollow above heel 3 J. ( Around top 10|. 

Length \^\. \ Around instep 12. 



Heel indentation f. | Diagonal measure 14^. 

Toji indentation |. (^ Size of Bottom 20. 

TO DRAFT THE GAITER. 

DRAW line ABC; B is 3| from A ; C is 5^ from A ; square across from each 
point as illustrated, 

D is f from C ; E is f from B ; 

Form back seam of gaiter rounding the heel. 

D to F is 5i ; square down ; 

From A to H diagonally, crossing the line E at H is 7^. 

Drop at G i inch ; measure from A to I ^ inch less than \ Bottom 9^ and 
square up one inch ; 

Form front and bottom through the points given as illustrated ; 

Raise at F |^ inch and form top ; 

Cut out gaiter allowing \ of an inch all round for seams and turnings in ; 

Make the button catch 1 \ inch when made up ; the sewing on edge of the but- 
ton catch may be straightened a seam at top and bottom, as this will tighten the 
seam on the side of the foot. 

This size gaiter will fit neatly on a 6 shoe. 



J^iflh Edition.'] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



H3HIX 




PLATE 38. 



94 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



LONG GAITERS. 

Plate 39. 



•^ 



To hollow above heel 3|, 
To the calf 13|, 
Full length 18. 



Around top 13|^ 
Around calf 15, 
Around instep 11|, 
Around Bottom 20, 
Diagonal measure from 



J TTop indentation |, 

I \ Above the heel 1, , - , i • ^ -i ^ i 

I I Bottom of the hed f . ^ '^^^^ ^^'^"^^ "^^*^P ^^i- 

TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 

PLACE short arm of the square on the floor in the same direction as the length 
of the foot ; the angle resting against the heel or calf, as the case may be, with 
the long arm upward; call off the lengths at the hollow above the heel 3^, calf 13A 
and full length 18 ; before removing the square take the indentations, at the bottom 
of the heel f, above the heel 1, and at full length at top | ; remove square measure 
around the top 13|, calf 15, instep 11^, bottom 20; then the diagonal measure from 
the seam of the heel, around the instep, back to the starting point 14|. 

TO MAKE THE DRAFT. 

DRAW construction line A B, from B mark off 3^ hollow of heel; 13A calf; 18 
full length. 

Square across from A B, and intermediate points ; 

Make a mark at the indentation below heel % ; hollow of heel \ ; and at top f ; 

Form back seam of Gaiter, rounding for heel as illustrated ; 

Mark off exactly \ of size at top 6| ; calf 7^ ; hollow of heel 5f ; bottom \ inch 
less than \ of the size 9^ inches ; 

Test the instep by the diagonal measure 7^ and thereby secure the exact posi- 
tion of the instep. 

Square down and drop at bottom f inch ; form front and bottom as illustrated, 
rounding the point at one inch above the straight line at bottom ; 

Button catch should not be less than 2 inches when made up ; 

Cut out Gaiter, allowing a seam at front and back according to requirement of 
material, and a turning in at top and bottom ; if made of goods that will not fray 
out, it is best to double stitch the edges and then no turnings in will be required. 

Straighten the sewing on edge of the button catch as jier dotted lines. 



Fifth Edition.-] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



95 




PLATE 39. 



PART II. 



Fifth Edition.-] « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 97 



REMARKS ON CAPES. 

rriHE majority of Cutters generallj find it difficult to cut capes. For this reason 
several styles are given on the following pages. The Systems by which they 
are produced are simple and reliable, and will answer for any style which may hap- 
pen to be in vogue. 

The Inverness, with which this part closes, is a gai-ment which every few years 
comes into popularity, and the method given for producing it will, therefore, be of 
considerable value to the trade. 



« STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. IFifth Edition. 



CAPE OR CLOAK. 

Plate 40. 



f Front length 88 ^ ^^ , „„ 
MEASURES. -( Over shoulder 42 V ^^^ 4\ 
\Back length 40 J on the Vest. 

DRAFT BY DIVISIONS OF THE BREAST MEASURE TAKEN ON THE 

VEST. 

"pvRAW front line A O ; 

Square down for back seam ; 

From A to B is ^o less than \ ; 

From B to C same distance as A to B ; 

From C to D is ^ distance of B to C ; 

From D to F same as from A to D ; 

From C to E same as from A to B ; 

Measure from F to E, and make F to (r | inch longer and sew on the fullness, 
stretching E F to it when pressing the seam ; 

From A to I same as from A to C ; 

Draw slash the shape of ordinary shoulder seam ; 

Front from D, measure of front length — 38 ; 

From E over shoulder — 42 ; 

From 1—40 inches ; 

Sweep bottom through lengths given ; 

Add button step or lapel as required and finish draft as illustrated ; 

This is a closer Cape or Cloak than that of Diagram 19, and is known as the \ 
circle. 

Back seam on crease edge of goods. 



Fifth Edition.'] 



■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



99 



JSack Seani on ffie creaaeie^ffe of Cloth 




PLATE 40. 



100 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fif'h Edition. 



CAPE OR CLOAK. 

Plate 41. 

r Front length 38 ^ Breast 38 

MEASURES.! Over shoulder 42 V iiieast .^b 

T> 1 1 ,1 At\ over the coat. 

1^ iJack length 40 J 

CUT BY THE OVER SACK DRAFT. 

~r)l-'^CE t^6 Draft of over Sack which tits the figure in position as illustrated ; 

Open the shouldei' at neck, 1^ inch ; 
; Close shoulder at scye point; 

This position gives a f circle; 

If less fullness is required, open the shoulder slash still more ; 

If required double breasted add 1 inch more at front all through for lapel, and 
place the buttons correspondingly farther back. 



■Fifth Edition.-] « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



101 



,.pr 



M Circle. 



o"^\ 



PLATE 41. 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

INVERNESS OVERCOAT. 

Plate 42. 



Breast 38 over the Coat. Length 42. 

CUT BY THE OVER SACK DRAFT. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK. 

PLACE the Back in position, and draw line A B 42^ inches. 
On line of shoulder seam, measure off \ Breast (19 on 3ds) and drop \ inch 
as as X ; 

Place Forepart of Draft in position as illustrated one inch apart at top of side 
seams, and 4 inches apart at bottom of same ; 

Form side seam of back through X, and through the center of the opening at 
top of side seams, striking side seam of forepart with a gradual sweep, falling in at 
O \ inch ; 

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. 

From L to M is ^ of Breast; (19 on 3ds) and is raised the same quantity as is 
reduced at X on the shoulder seam of back (^ inch) ; 

Draw short line as illustrated between scye points of the shoulder seams, and 
mark the center Z ; 

Square by line A B across to the bottom of scye as C F ; 

Point N is the same distance from the breast line C F as is Z ; 

Form scye from M through the foi'e-arm scye pitch, \ inch back of scye to N ; 

Breast pocket is 19 on halves from C, and is 6 inches long; 

Place patch pocket as illustrated ; 

Space off 5 Buttons about 6 inches apart and the draft of the Forepart is com- 
pleted. 

TO DRAFT THE CAPE. 

Place sleeve in position at fore-arm as illustrated and make a dot at E 1 inch 
below hind arm ; 

From L as a center sweep through E as illustrated ; 

From L draw line of shoulder through M, X and Z, and meet sweep ; 

Make a notch at D and round the corner ; 

Make the front to run with the run of forepart as illustrated. 

Form collar as illustrated. 



Fifth Edition] 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



103 




o 

PLATE 42. 



PAET III 



Fifth Edition.'\ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



MISFITS. 



M 



ISFITS arise from the followina; causes . 



1st. An incorrect measure. 

2d. Misconception of the Form. 

3d. Want of care in drafting. 

4th. Bad making up. 

1st. 

An incorrect measure. 

See pages 8 and 9. 



2d. 
Misconception of the Form. 
A careful study of the methods inculcated under the headings, 
Attitude or Inclination, see pages 106-109, 
Use of Block Patterns, see pages 111-118, 
will give the student the necessary information regarding the error which causes the 
misfit. 

3d. 

Want of care in drafting. 
The only reason for this heading is to emphasize the necessity of care. 
The two self-evident propositions the Cutter has to bear in mind are : 

Get a correct measure. 

Apply it correctly. 



4th. 
Bad Making up. 
See pages 120-124. 



106 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

INCLINATION OR ATTITUDE OF THE FIG- 
URE TO BE FITTED. 



HAVING taken the required measures with the greatest care possible, we have 
only arrived at lengths, depths and widths from one point to another ; and 
that too, over a curved surface. Now, it is evident that on laying off these meas- 
ures, we do so on other lines and in other directions than on the figure measured. 
Every line on the body is more or less on the curve, and some of the measures in 
their course pass over a very irregular surface, round at one place and hollow at 
another ; to rectify which we have to fall back on experience as to what allowance, 
either of increase or decrease, that experience has found to be necessary. When that 
has been done and we have the draft completed so far, two other things of equal, if 
not greater importance, remain to be considered; first, style; second, attitude or in- 
clination of the figui'e — the figure may bend fi-om the waist, blade, or top of shoulder, 
backward or forward. These two positions are seen in Diagram A and Diagram B ; 
or bending either way above the blade, may take a contrary direction below. It is 
easy to be understood that the direction of the body has to be followed as well as 
the lengths and widths, or there will be a misfit. The required room may be in the 
draft, but it may not be in the I'ight direction. The method which produced the 
draft will have to be supplemented by considerations, which shall place the given 
lines of length and width in the required direction. 

Diagrams C and D are the drafts as produced by measure. 

Diagram B is the alteration made for the stooping figure. 

Diagram A is the alteration made for the over-erect figure. 

The principle involved is the same in both instances ; that of swinging the pat- 
tern on a pivot forward or backward, as inclined in its attitude. 

The waist suppression must not be interfered with, as all necessary changes are 
made by the change of the position. 

For the stooping figure :- -Lay the back in position and swing it forward, mak- 
ing C a pivot to the extent that judgment dictates, 

The scye has no need to be forwarded, nor has the shoulder point. The front 
scye is correctly located by the front of scye or short blade measure, and the greater 
depth of back scje has made the necessary variation in the shoulder point. 

Diagram A shows the alteration to suit the over-erect figure. It will be seen 
that C is made a pivot, and that the back is thrown backwards in the direction 
of the over-erect attitude, as indicated by the dotted lines. The measure in this 
case, as in the stooping one, has located the scye in the right place, and the 
shorter back measure, in squaring for the shoulder point, has brought it farther 
back, giving it the necessary inclination demanded. 



I^flh Edition.'] 



■■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



lO"? 




'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



DIAGRAM F. SWAYBACK. 



T I iHE stooping figure, which generally has an indentation at the natural waist of 
about \ inch or f , sometimes takes the form of what is called the swayback ; 
that is from below the blade, the attitude is the same as that of the over-erect, and 
the indentation reaches \\ or If inch, a figure generally considered very difticult to 
fit ; this can be accomplished, however, by following the instructions given in Dia- 
gram E, page 79. Incline the back forward for the stooping position of the shoulders 
and then throw out the back shirt by the waist indentation as in Diagram I, page 83, 
for the over-erect figure. In Diagram E the waist indentation is f of an inch only, 
while in Diagram F the waist indentation is H inch as per dottod line. The top 
part of the back is of the same inclination in both figures. 



I'ifth Edition. 



STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



109 




PAET IV. 



Fifth JEdition.] " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. 



~1 FAYING secured Patterns suited to the class of Trade for which they are 
required, it is requisite to enter on the measure book whatever differences 
from the normal type can be detected by the Cutter as aids to his measures. Short 
neck, flat hips, hollow at chest above the breast line, over-erect, head carried back, 
head forward, hollow between the blades, fleshy across back and around shoulders, 
very stooping, naiTow chested, flat seat, prominent hips, high or low shoulders, pro- 
minent or flat blade^ or any other peculiar confirmation that the eye can detect. Note 
height, weight, age, as all of these remarks will be of untold advantage as the 
Cutter acquires experience in the use of Block Patterns. 



112 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. 



DIAGRAMS G-H. STOOPING FIGURE. 

PLACE back in position and mark round it lightly ; 
Pivot at C and incline the back forward as indicated by dotted lines ; 

From O to C round the back seam slightly to give moi-e room across the 
shoulders ; the proper inclination being given, sufficient ease will be obtained for 
the round of the shoulders and a clean smoothly fitting back will be the result ; on 
stooping forms the back is relatively longer than the normal pattern ; it is therefore 
necessary to add as on the diagram ; if no measure has been taken add | or f of an 
inch, according to judgment ; 

Place the forepart in position and mark round it liprhtly; make mark X and 
use X as a pivot, inclining forepart forward half as much as the back -was, and mark 
around as per dotted lines ; the scye will be forwarded tliereby and the shoulder 
point also. 

The shoulders are not necessarily larger because the figure stoops; it is simply 
a difference in front and l)ack lengths; instead of the first over measure being 12^ 
it will be possibly llf, the lost f being made up from the front of scye to socket 
bone at O ; the measure will also be more from F to C ; it will be necessary to 
shorten the shoulder as per broken lines to preserve the same size of the shoulder. 



DIAGRAMS I-J. THE OVER-ERECT. 

Place Pattern of back in position, mark round it lightly, use C as a pivot and 
swing the back backwai-d as per dotted lines ; this gives the attitude or inclination 
of the figure ; 

Over-erect figures are shorter from C to O than the normal one which the 
pattern fits ; it will therefore be necessary to reduce as per broken lines on the 
Diagram. 

FOREPART. 

Place the forepart in position, mark round it lightly, use * at arm scye as a 
pivot, and mark around it as per dotted lines ; 

Reduce under arm and add at front of breast as illustrated ; erect figures being 
smaller from C to F and larger from F across to the front of breast than the normal 
form which the pattern fits ; this figure is also longer on the front shoulder and 
requires to be added to as per broken lines the same amount as taken off the back, 
and the reduction under the arm so as to make the shoulder measure fill. These 
figures, accounted so difficult to fit, lose their apparent difficulty when it is considered 
that the three figures iiieasure the same size of shoulder ; the difference being that the 
stooping is longer on the back and shorter on the front of shoulder ; the erect figure 
is shorter on the back and as much longer on the front shoulder. 

Our illustration provides step by step for these differences. 

In each case adjust the length of side seam of sidebody to the altered back. 
Diagrams G-H, I and J show the action of the principle involved step by step, but 
Diagrams K-L, M and N show a quicker and simpler method which arrives at the 
same result. 



Mjth Edition. '\ 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 




114 " STAND AKD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS, Continued. 
DIAGRAMS K-L. 

CUT across the back at the point where the inclination of the figure commences 
and open for the stooping figure what the measure calls for over and above 
that of the block pattei-n and mark around the back. 

Reform the back seam so as not to have a too sudden curve. 



FOREPART. 



Cut across the forepart on the breast line and lap one-half of the amount that 
the back was opened ; mark around the pattern, then reduce a little at front of 
breast and cut out pattern. 

Another method taught in the old school is to make a round shoulder seam on 
either tlie back or forepart or on both, and also to add to the round of blade or side 
seam of sidebody ; this puts on a longei- back, raises the neck, and gives the re(piired 
measures over the rounded back shoulder of the bent l)ack of the stooping figure it 
is ti'ue ; but, it is unfortunately true also, that it places too much cloth on the front 
shoulder of forepart, making the shoulder seam longer than is required, and works 
in time into wrinkles, simply because cloth is given where it is not wanted ; it places 
too much length on the round of blade and balloons the back below the curve of the 
hack seam inclination of the figure ; the difficulties of the jour, are increased, and it 
is ne.xt to impossible for him to produce a clean, smooth, natural looking shoulder 
and side seam ; when on, such a coat has a heavy and clumsy look around the neck 
and shoulders, strongly emphasizing the dispropoi-tion ; and is one more striking 
illustration of the danger incurred through not following the lines of the figure. 



DIAGRAMS M-N. OVER ERECT. 

Do just the reverse of that for the stooping figure — cut across back and /op the 
parts to bring the level at scye line on back to the required measure, and open the 
forepart on breast line, adding to make breast larger just what is taken off at side 
body under arm. 

Remarks : In case the shoulder measures are larger than the block pattern will 
measure, take the size bi'east that comes to the shoulder measures required — treat 
the pattern as already instructed, and [tlacing the different parts in closing position 
make the breast size to measui'e. 



Fifth Edition.} 



" STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



115 




O v.---- 



116 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTrNG. [Fifth Edition. 

USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS, Continued. 

DIAGRAM O. SLOPING SHOULDER WITH ARM SCYE EEGULAR. 

rr^HE Sloping Shoulder must not be mistaken for the long neck ; the shoulder may 
be very low and the neck be of normal length ; a low shoulder may also be 
accompanied by a long neck, but this is so marked a form that it can not easily be 
mistaken ; the usual error made is not noticing whether the scye is smaller or not 
than is usual ; in all cases of sloping shoulder it is well to take the scye measure ; if 
the scye measure is proportionate to the size of shoulder, the dotted lines give the 
necessary alteration ; if smaller, then diagram P should be followed. The back 
remains the same in either case. See Diagram R. 



HIGH SHOULDER. 

High shouldered figures usually stand over erect, and the block pattern should 
be treated as per Diagram M for the over erect figui'e; then add on at scye point of 
shoulder, h or f inch, as required ; the scye level measure will show if the neck needs 
to be lowered. 



DIAGRAM S. SHORT NECK. 

Simply reduce as per dotted lines. 



DIAGRAM T. LONG NECK. 

The Normal or Block Pattern, being too low in the neck for this figure, add on 
as illustrated, but it is necessary to spring the seams at neck point of shoulder 
in order that the Coat may go up and keep its place ai'ound the neck; many a Coat 
sufliciently high in the neck, but not hollow enough at side of neck, drops down in a 
crease under collar seam and baflles the inexperienced to discover the fault. 



Fifth Edition.'] 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



117 




118 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \Fifth Edition. 

LARGE WAISTED FIGURE. 

TO alter a block pattern to suit this figure demands special attention ; the extra 
size is usiially from the sidebody seams to the front ; if so, add \ of the 
difference at the waist under the arm and f on the front ; but it sometimes happens 
that the form is pretty well rounded almost from the hip button ; in such a case add 
I of the difference under the arm at waist gradually from the top of sidebody and 
the other \ in front. 

This balances the figure as well as it can be on general principles ; it will be 
necessary to adjust the run of the bottom of the scye. 



SMALL WAISTS. 



It is best to allow the front line at lapel seam and the side seam line to be un- 
disturbed, and, to take out the difference of measure at the sidebody seams and at 
the front, slash ; if the waist is very small it is advisable to take out two slashes. 



PART Y 



120 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth Edition. 



ON MAKING UP. 



To make this Work more complete, we propose to give some practical advice in 
making up, that experience has taught us is much needed. 
To have a well marked success, the Cutter must know all the details of the 
making uji ; in point of fact, should be as much " at home " in the workroom as at 
the cutting table. He shoidd be so much the master of his business as to be enabled 
to take the garment out of the hand of the "Jour" and point out what is wrong, 
beyond the possibility of contradiction ; else he stands a poor chance of being able 
to distinguish where the faults lie when accidents happen. This is not a work on 
manners, therefore we need say no more than that faults should be kindly pointed 
out \ it is had policy to offend the worJ:man. 

Do with as little stretchiiig as possible, and wherevei' edges require to be tight- 
ened have it done by the iron before the edges ai-e stayed by tape. kSee that the 
facings are put in smoothly and of sufficient size ; taking for granted that the seams 
have been cut with the required contour of curve, see that the line is preserved in 
the making up, and that the facings are always felled exactly on ihs seams, preserv- 
ing the same shape. A very important thing, as regards gracefulness and fit, is 
comprised in putting in the facings to fit the outside ; if this be properly done and 
tlie Coat is not loluit it should he, then the Cutter has a problem for consideration. 

Nothing tells more against a Cutter's reputation than creases or wrinkles in his 
garments ; not even a misfit. On the detection of a crease, whether it be aci'oss the 
top of the back, across the shoulder, at front of scye, across the breast, or across the 
top of side seam (and it is the Cutter's experience to get all of them), it becomes 
his business to hnow the why and wherefore ; and, unless he be as conversant with the 
details of the making up oL' the gaiment as he is with the cutting of it, he is placed 
in a very unenviable position — he is at the mercy of the " JourT 

Many who either cannot or do not reason, place a ci'eased shoulder on the broad 
back of that White Elephant in the Trade, the shoulder point ; it is said to be too 
straight or too croolced, dependant upon its being more forward or moi-e backward 
than just that exact spot which, to such minds, is the ne p)l'us ultra of all that is 
required in a coat; entirely overlooking the fact that in the many practical systems 
used by our leading cutters (all other conditions being equal) that the shoulder 
point has a play of an inch forward and an inch backward from a central point, and 
in no instance getting a creased shoulder ; of course, always provided the required 
length of strap is given. 



Fifth Ed,itionI\ 



■■ STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. 



If the shoulder is of sufficient length and in its proper position and yet creases, 
what is the cause ? We answer, the most prolific of all causes — 

TWISTED FACINGS. 

Facings should be cut about f of an inch larger around neck, shoulder seam and 
scye than the forepart — no more ; it is usual to cut them an inch larger ; the two 
lines on diagram 1 will show what we mean. When cut to the outside line there is 
too much margin given to the Joui", and if, as is generally the case in all shops ex- 
cept those of the best trade(and sometimes even among them), the sleeves are sewn in 
by machine, and that, too, before the facing is basted to the shoulder, it is more than 
probable, as the Jour has then no guide as to shape, that most or all of the extra 




width will get pushed out at A or D (see Diagram 2), and cut off, the extra length 
will be basted in between D and B ; the consequence is that the scye from D to B 
being on the bias, and the fullness of the sleeve being kept on in that distance, that 
this part of the scye gets stretched to the length of the facing, and being serged 
tightly to it, drops down with the back pad at back scye, causing wrinkles as shown 
in Diagrams 2 and 3 on blade, besides having the effect of making the top of side 
seam appear too large ; too much length from B to D made in this way affects point 
A, as if A were cut too short, and unsightly wrinkles appear as shown in Diagram 4 ; 
once in, never out again / you may rip shoulder seam, hollow and stretch forepart at 
neck point of shoulder and gorge, put back and collar on full and lengthen shoulder 
point to balance the lengthened scye point, but the creases will not away ; the only 
chance is to cut the entire facing clear across the shoulder, canvas wadding and inter- 



'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



[Fifth Edition. 



lining, and baste new top of facing to the shape of shoulder, for there is the fault 
and this is the cui'e. The facing is a joint compact mass, welded together by being 
thickly padded, or still worse, machine sewed, and always commands the outside ; it 
becomes the same thing as if the Cutter had cut the shoulder f of an inch too short 
at neck point, and as much too long at scye point ; had this been done all know the 
shoulder must break, and it is more certain to do so now, by the facing being twisted 
in shape, and pulling the outside in different directions. Such defective tailoring is 
very apt, too, to further increase the fault by the back being put on tight in the 
hollow of the shouldei', which of itself would throw creases even if there were no 
facing. Diagi'am 2 will show also in the lower line a too deep interlining and 
wadding brought down below the round of blade and hollow of sidebody and side 
seam. Now, the outside is hollow under the arm and round over the blade, falling 
in at top of side seam point ; as usually worked up, the interlining and its cargo 
being made up flat, and on the straight, drags on the blade, causing the outside to 
appear full, as we have before noticed (see Diagram 3), and when brought up to the 
shoulder and closed, having, neither sufficient length nor width for the outside on 
the rounded parts, drags away at A, causing creases as seen on Diagram 4. 




ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 3, 4, 5 and 6. 

The facings should always be cut through at the side seam — the back pad being 
made apart from the sidebody, and stitched on the back lining independently, and 
fastened on side seam as it is on the shoulder seam to the exact shape of the respect- 
ive seams, and on the seams, not half or three-quarters of an inch away from them. 
This troublesome crease business, and it is an ever recurring one in large trades, can 
be easily avoided by the means we have indicated. 

In speaking of twisted facings as the most prolific cause of creased shoulders we 
desire to impress on the mind of the reader the obvious fact that if the inside of the 
Coat does not fit the customer the outside cannot ; if any main point of the facing 
fail to reach its proper position by one-half inch or by one and a half inches, that 



Fifth Edition.-] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 123 



main point of the outside to which such point of the facing is attached is thereby 
located where the facing brings it, besides having tlie outside disfigured by the 
crease, fold or wrinkle into which the outside consequently doubles up. 

The facing slionJd le tiglit nowhere, neither in length nor width, but should fit 
the outside as the inside of the eggshell fits the outside ; wherever possible the fac 
ing should be treated as is the outside— V for V, shrinking for shrinking, stretching 
for stretching ; and where the facing cannot be stretched as is the outside, a V or 
fullness should be used to pi'oduce the same effect ; the front edge is more or less 
shrunk in always, yet how few shrink in the facing to fit it ; the consequence is that 
tlie outside is all of a blister, and the room intended to have been given over the 
round of the chest is destroyed and the coat tightened across the buttoning ; the 
shape required is indicated by the cuts and the boundary lines ; but what is more 
common in the daily experience of the Cutter than to find the same effect produced 
in the finished garment when he has cut V's as when he has cut fishes ; often both 
are pressed out flat and the whole effect destroyed by the facing being put in, not 
only flat but tight also ; the fish intended to make a shapely hollow, the V a re- 
quired fullness on the round ; each desired effect destroyed by defective tailoring 
and the garment finished as flat as the cutting table, except where the tightened edge 
curls the thing inward ; this is not shaping, it is simply crippling the outside ; even 
when the canvas, hair cloth and its cargo may be rightly shaped, the cloth facing 
and lining counteract what this was intended to produce. The simplest method 
known to us is to build up one part of the garment on the other — the canvas on the 
outside, the interlining, hair cloth and padding successively placed one upon the 
other, each in its turn worked up to fit each other. The shape of the facings can be 
greatly helped by cutting the edges which are sewn to each other lengthwise, as 
illustrated by Diagram 6. 

Just where the lining sews on to the inner edge of the cloth, is usually the place 
on the breast that the Cutter intends should be shaped to the figure, and by cuts he 
produces a rounded form ; it will be seen that both edges are rounded in the Dia- 
gi'ani ; this gives both length and width at this part and meets the requirements of 
the outside, and has no tendency to slide away from its proper place when finished, 
as is the case in some other methods intended to produce the same effect. Facings 
cut as per Diagram 6, prevent the formation of horizontal creases across the breast, 
which we have seen after a few days wear start from the top button, increasing in 
boldness as they traveled downward to the waist seam ; when this is the case a slash 
lengthwise and another crosswise will show the trouble plainly ; the facing freed 
will gape as if tired by the effort to spoil the fit. Put on the garment after the 
slashes have been made, that which seemed shapeless, swinging about as if it had no 
relation to the figure it was made for, will drop into its place, hugging the breast, 
falling neatly into the hips and around the breast, fulfilling the best hopes of the 
Cutter. 



124 " STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 

Diagram 5 is offered as a Conundrum to those who still cling to the ridiculous 
idea that the mei'e })osition of the shoulder point is the cause of creases on the 
shoulder. It is intended to represent the shoulder of a Coat without a shoulder 
seam^ the back and forepart being cut in one piece. Will any tailor out of a lunatic 
asylum doubt that this shoulder will crease and wrinkle if the facings are put in 
as we described when considering them as the cause of the trouble? Put on a short 
collar, twist the facings, keep the fullness of the sleeve head close to back pitch, 
and as far away from fore arm as is possible, and a most interesting " kill " is the 
residt ; creased shoulder, tightened scye and fullness at top of sidebody seam will 
then be apparent ; but where, all this time, is the shoulder point? 

A Coat may be cut outrageously crooked, crooked enough to fall away from 
the fore arm pivot and swing off at the hip, or it may be cut outrageously straight, 
straight as the latest appearance of the old thirds and fourths in its (/rand edition, 
and yet no creases need appear on the shoulders ; in the one case, the coat may soon 
tear at the fore arm, and in the other, no amount of objugatory prayer will keep it 
from lapping at the front of scye; the Customer will complain of too much cloth, 
but it is simply the result of a constrained position of the shoulder — the shoulder 
out of its position with respect to the other parts of the garment. Slash such a Coat 
across from the place where the lap commences above the fore ai-m to the top but- 
ton, and the breast will ojien enough to get I'id of the lapping, but the Coat will 
hang listlessly around the hips under the arms like a flapping sail, showing plainly 
that a true balance is the harmonious relationship of the various pieces called a Coat. 
On paper the draughtsman can make any point his fixed point and rightly claim that 
it must not be disturbed, because all his other points obey its governing impulse ; he 
may stai't his Coat from a given inclination or direction of the breast line, the neck 
and hip can only be placed within determinable spaces ; his sujipression then be- 
comes of vital consideration ; he may start from some point in the neck circle and 
work downwards, locating every point in accordance with this one ; or he may prefer 
the orthodox straight back seam and work fi'om the socket bone in the usual way, 
locating his several points upon some theory of mutual relationship, but it is upon 
this idea only can he work rationally and come out light. How much do you take 
out at top of sidebody ? How much do you take out between back and sidebody at 
natural waist? How much do you consider ought to be taken out under arm? Do 
you think, chimes in a discoverer, that anything ought to come out at side seam, top 
or bottom, simply a fish to fit the hollow — is not that your idea ? Where do you 
fix your shoulder point ? Who has not been asked these questions whenever a num- 
ber of Cutters rally round a Coat Di'aft ? We close this essay by saying that such 
questions are proof positive that the questioners have all to learn ; that they are as 
yet totally ignorant of the first princijDles involved; every point is in relation as to 
position with every other. 



PART VI. 



126 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Fifth EilUion. 

CREASES IN GENERAL. 



IT is not only across the shoulders and breast that badly fitting, twisted and tight 
facings will produce creases. We have already pointed out that horizontal 
wrinkles are too apt to gather across the top of the sidebody also, and that when 
this defect occurs it not unfrequently happens that it causes the scye to feel tight at 
the forearm ; it sometimes chances that the creases extend from the forearm across 
the shoulder, making a heavy fold underneath the collar seam from one side of the 
neck to the other; in such an extreme case as this, the facing being much too short 
to reach the shoulder point, the back lining is pulled upon to supply the deficiency, 
and having no more width at top of back than the back itself requires, it produces 
a similar effect to that caused by the back lining being too short at top ; but the 
chief fault is that there is not sufficient room in the lining around the neck, which 
cripples the outside by bringing it down to that place around the neck which is of 
the same size in its curve as the lining ; a fold or wrinkle below is the inevitable 
consequence ; it cannot lie smoothly about the neck on a longer curve than that to 
i\ liich the insufficient inside has brought the outside. 

Back linings are rarely put in wide enough immediately across the top of back, 
as the shoulder seams of the lining are felled before the collar is sewed on, and no 
allowance is made for the stretching of the neck gorge ; true, it is customary to put 
a plait through the back seam ; but it is also customary to securely tighten it by 
sewing the maker's name ticket firmly across the back plait, a piece of stout silk or 
lasting on the straight fastened down so as effectually to counteract any good for 
which the plait was intended ; kept from all elasticity still further by the felling of 
the collar. 

The attempt to correct this fault of a roll around the back neck, is made mainly 
on the supposition that the Coat is cut too high in the neck, or that the collar is over- 
stretched and put on short ; in the former case the neck is lowered and the collar 
stretched ; but the unsightly fold remains, because the lining, ten chances to one, is 
now tighter than before ; in the latter case the collar is lengthened, but to no pur- 
pose; a V in the facing at neck gorge and more lining across the top of back is the 
remedy, at once simple and correct ; this being attended to and the fault still in 
existence, the Coat is probably cut too high in the neck, and also lacks sufficient 
spring for the slope of neck at shoulder point of shoulder seam ; this is easily dis- 
covered by opening the shoulder seam and setting the collar free at top of back ; in 
stout figures with short thick necks, the double fault is sometimes made in cuttiug ; 
cut too high in the neck, and also nipped too much at neck of shoulder seams on 
forepart and back ; and it is sometimes, nay, often, caused by badly cut underwear 
and worse cut shirts making a thick roll of goods across the back at top, making it 
next to impossible for any outer garment to remain smoothly in its place. 



^Fifth Edition.\ 



"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



127 



CREASES AT BACK-SCYE. 

This fault in an otherwise faultless coat is frequently caused by cutting too 
straight a back seam for the sake of style, and is as often found in the work of high- 
class trades as in that of pooi'er ones. It is a fixed idea with the cutter, that unless 
the back of the figure to be fitted has a violent inclination one way or the other, 
bending backward or bending forward, veiy stooping, or over-erect, it is a fixed idea 
that the hach seam should be cut straight, and the back is lengthened or shortened as 
if this squarely met the case ; printers' ink is used in abundance ; teachers of cutting 
aifect to be knowing and talk glibly ; anatomy, mathematics and machinery are called 
into court to get the true level of arm scye on the back, and a point at right angles 
with the same at front of scye ; with these relative measurements thus secured, the 
cutter is assured that he cannot go wrong. Alas ! it so happens that he does, not- 
withstanding — measurement is not attitude, length is not inclination. 

SEE DIAGRAMS 1 AND 2. 





ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 1, 2, 3 .wd 4. 

Diagram 1 shows the section of the normal back which is to be fitted ; Diagram 
2, the back cut in true orthodox fashion to fit it. Now it is self-evident that when 
the straight edge of the back seam is placed on this curved inclination, there will be 
a superabundance of cloth to be got rid of somehow, or there will be no fit; it is as 
idle to expect it as it would be to think of fitting a sjjherical ball or a cone by join- 
ing straight lines together. A glance at Diagram 6 will show what we mean ; 
wedges must be taken out as at Y, either end, or fit is impossibls; so in fitting the 
irregular curves of the human figure we have to get rid of the "too muchness" by 
taking out wedges. How much and where, is the Cutter's problem. Diagram 5 is a 
representation of the current method ; we take out at E, O and D — veiy rarely any- 
thing at A, unless for very marked abnormality. What then, is the consequence ? 



128 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 



[Fifth Edition. 



Shaping by drawing in, pressing away of fullness, stretching, shrinking, and by some 
minor i-eductions, V's and slashes, we contrive to get a flexible material into some- 
tiling like respectal)le form. Happily, or unhappily, we have not to deal with inflex- 
ible goods — happily, because we now escape thei'eby downright failure which other- 
wise would be our lot ; unhappily, because if we were forced to woi'k out results 
with inflexible goods, we should have to put our.selves under practical scientific 
study, and, paradoxical as it may appear, principles would be sought and found, that 
may not yet for many a year dawn upon our contented and benighted understand- 
ings. We should then be driven to follow the curves and lines of the surface to be 
fitted, and though driven to our wit's end for some method of rectification, we 
have no doubt that a cleaner fit and a far higher artistic result would be achieved 
with the more difficult material. Diagram 4 shows what frequently occurs when a 




ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 5 .\nd 6. 

stright line in the back is made to cover a figure only slightly more bent forward 
than the normal one ; there is a pucker or fullness at D, and no extra reduction as at 
E and O, Diagram 5, will remove it. Cut the battk across as at O and U, Diagram 3, 
and the shoulder seam drops down, lapping over the superabundant goods, and the 
back seam if ripped open will fall forward at the top. Diagram 3 is purposely 
exaggerated to make the meaning clearer ; an easy alteration can be made, provided 
an outlet has been left in the back seam. 

Open the back seam from the socket bone to below the ai'm-scye level, and the 
gap will show at once what is wanted — the fault at D will have disappeared, show- 
ing plainly that a wedge ought to have been taken out at top of back, as well as at 
point of shouldei', top of side seara and bottom of same. No one would attempt to 
fit the curve of the blade without taking out wedges, and yet the same man will 
expect to get a clean surface on the curve of the back seam without it. A curved 
back seam with the right inclination, may actually have a shorter back and give a 
cleaner and more graceful style than the straight and longer one. 



PAET Til. 



]30 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Fifth Edition. 



CUTTING-ROOM ETIOUETTE. 



IN our Public Schools every mark of " Deportjient " wou by the child, if rightly 
estimated by the Parent, counts equally with one of intellectual ability. 

Unfortunately, many other matters that lie at the foundation of a successful 
career are so slurred over in early life, that a painful after-education is inevitable. 
In the Cutting-Room, not even unquestioned first-class ability as a Cutter takes 
precedence of that serene culture which bespeaks ^'tJie perfect Gentleman r Its 
possession will save you from a host of troubles incident to a difficult profession. 

Employer, Customer and Woi'kman are equally susceptible to its influence ; 
the latter is sensitively alive to it ; but it is to the real article, not the tinsel counter- 
feit that so often assumes the role. 

Punctuality and Order are of primary importance in the evei-y day routine of 
the Cutting-Room. A scrupulous regard for time is your duty, for in business rela- 
tions time is money to all concerned. 

Without Order you are in a chronic state of irritation ; nothing is handy when 
wanted ; one thing crowds another and punctuality is made impossible in every 
direction ; and it is certain that the most extended experience \\\\\ but emphasize 
this statement. 

Cultivate an even temper, it will be wanted ; moreover, it is always good stock, 
though not always the dominant Fashion. Temper has no place in business, but 
Firmness, Dignity and Kindliness are never out of place. 

It is a condition of your existence as a Cuttei', that your best efforts will be 
marred occasionally by bad work ; and it is another that your best work will be un- 
appreciated, sometimes by your Employer, at others by the Customer. A laiffled 
temper, an uncourteous bearing, will avail you nothing, but will surely discount you 
on either hand. You will be asked to make altei-ations as to fit and style, that \vill 
spoil the effect desired. While offering a ready acquiescence, take the opportunity 
to point out unmistakably that such will be the case, so that the resjionsibility will 
shift hands. 

It will also happen that you will be consulted by the customer as to the style 
of the Goods, as well as to the style of the Gannent, and that too, even aftei- the trans- 
action is supposed to have been settled between him and the Salesman ; you thus 
find yourself unavoidably placed in a very delicate ]iosition, and it will require all 
your tact to come out right ; waste no words, be sure of your advice, or donUt give it. 

It is due to the Salesman that you treat his opinion with courteous considera- 
tion, but it is also due to the Customer that you give him your best thought, and 
it is equally due to your own reputation and that of the Firm that the Customer be 
rightly dressed. 

Do not assume to teach your Customer, but to axlvise him ; it is he who has to 
pay for the Garment and your duty is to do your best to please him. 

Study economy in Cutting ; because you have a long length to cut from, do 
not be careless, but cut as economically as if you had but a short one. 

While rapidity counts during the busy season, it will be found that accuracy 
takes the lead ; it is a small gain that you have cut fifty suits in a given time if one- 
half of them have failed to give satisfaction ; "be sure you are right, then go ahead," 

It is the highest compliment to your efficiency when the Salesman takes down 
the Garment from the peg and goes straight to the Bookkeeper for the Bill, instead 
of waiting to see the Garment tried on first ; accuracy wins. 



Fifth Edition.'] 



STANDARD" WORK ON CUTIING. 131 



ADVICE TO YOUNG CUTTERS. 



WE have ofteu been asked the question, " Would you advise one to secure a 
written contract?" When the Atlienian youth asked of Socrates, "Is it 
well to marry ? " the old sage replied : " You will repent either ; " so is it with iron- 
bound contracts ; if you give satisfaction, you can do without, if not, it is slavery 
with. It is advisable to have a written programme as to duties and salai'y, this is 
advantageous on both sides, as it leaves no room for mistakes. 

You have well understood duties ; attend to them and allow no mtei'ference in 
carrying them out to a successful issue ; assert the whole force of your character 
firmly, kindly, conscientiouslj^, whenever such a thing happens, as happen it must, 
and you will find that all around you consider it strength of charactei- and not weak- 
ness,' to stand upon your feet erect and self-reliant. The ciying sin of the Trade is 
said to be reckless promises with regard to time; this matter is especially yours ; 
your employer i-ightly supposes that you know the capabilities of your staff, and 
looks to you that tlie promise be kept. If you cannot get the garment finished until 
the 20th, don't promise it on the 13th ; your customer may be a poor judge of value 
in material, may be deficient in his ideas with respect to style, but he knows when 
he is disappointed in time. ^ ■ j, . ^ ^ 

When a Customer is brought to you to measure, take nothing tor granted ; ask 
him as to style of Garment, and see that he understands it as you do. He may con- 
found a Sack with a Frock, and may tell you that he wants a " dress Suit" when he 
means a Sunday or holiday Suit; take him to the Fashion Plate and point out the 
differences. It is better to do this before the Cutting is done, and not after the Suit 
is made up. In taking the measure, don't be in a hurry ; if your man is fidgetty 
give him time to settle down ; talk to him about the style, size, anything to the point 
to keep his mind occupied, and so prevent his taking an unnatural position or swell- 
ino- out his chest. Pass no remarks on any deformities you may notice ; enter them 
uu°noticed in the Order Book. It is not very gi-atifying to the Customer to be told 
that he is not " half made up." 

In taking the measures, be cai'ef ul not to push your Customer about ; many men 
are nervous when being measured, and you can see that they wish it done with It 
behooves you then to bo self-contained, gentle and easy in your manner. Call off 
your measures slowly and distinctly ; look over the entry when complete and rectify 
any error that may have been made ; see that the little matters are correctly entered 
—number of pockets, character of the edges, trimming generally and in detail ; num- 
ber of goods, price, if to try on, when, and the time to be finished ; leave nothing to 
the memory that can be written doion in the Ifeasure Book Have a uniforin method 
of taking and writing down your measures, and if at any time you think it needful 
to take one or more extra measures, place them in a bracket [ ]. 

If you have to alter a Garment look up the pattern and make the same altera- 
tion on it • at the first opportunity compare it with the original and satisfy yourseit 
where the' error was— if in measuring, drafting or making up; in this manner you 
will be insuring; your future success. , n x \ 

Never allow a discreditable piece of work to be sent home to the Customer ; be 
satisfied that each Garment is equal to the average, and you will Inuld up a Trade as 
advantageous to yourself as to your employer. 



